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With my limited testing and experience I would say that it is something that should be done and I will continue to do it (sub zero) on my knives. If I can gain one point in hardness it's worth it. If it will improve the knife's ability to cut, I'll do it. I want to make the best performing blade...

Maybe they will ship to Italy. http://usaknifemaker.com/heat-treat-ovens-and-accessories-c-57/heat-treat-accessories-c-57-115/pbc-regular-anti-scale-powder-1lb.html

In July 1993, Chris Reeve Knives, sole proprietorship, became Reeve Incorporated, doing business as Chris Reeve Knives.[3] Reeve collaborated with Dick Barber of Crucible Materials Corporation to develop CPM S30V steel as a knifemaking steel in 2003. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Reeve_Knives

Nice looking knife. I bet the ergonomics suit the intended use very well.

Congratulations. That is a very nice looking knife.

X2. I have some sitting here waiting patiently.

Good point. I'm hesitant to make a knife just to destroy, but may have to consider it at some point. So far I would say it's on par (or possibly a little better) than the S35VN or Elmax that I've tested as far as cutting goes (Sebenza 25 and a hunter by Kevin Cox.).

That sounds pretty good and I'm looking forward to hearing anything if you get the information. Thanks.

Thanks. I will follow your advice. I'm pretty sure he uses a saw or axe to split the bones. They would be pretty big on a moose. He did say that moose hide is very hard on a blade edge.

I'm going to be making a hunter for a buddy of mine and was wondering what hardness I should be tempering the steel to. I'll be using 1/8" steel, approx 5-5.5" blade length and a full flat grind. He hunts mostly moose and elk.

I'm not a fan of coated blades, but that's a personal thing.

I think it's .060". I'm pretty sure the problem was that I didn't have it hot enough and I tried to redo that one a second time. The recent ones have been doing are turning out a bit better. Made my first leather sheath for the EDC above.

That's some good looking work.

Nice work.

Mine are 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" long. Don't remember the height off hand. I think it was Brian Fellhoelter who said in another thread that the gold stencils from TUS are really good.

Thanks for the replys. I ended up flooding it with CA and will sand it down to see if it filled the cracks. I don't think I will be working with this wood again.

Sorry, I should have been clearer in my previous post. 13C26(Sandvik) - Sandvik steel, very similar to Uddeholm AEB-L steel. In fact variation in composition is of 0.1% magnitude. Same elements. Very clean alloy. Proprietary Equivalents Bohler-Uddeholm - AEB-L Outokumpu - SF.100...

I'm new to knife making and finishing wood. I used some Bocote on a small EDC I made and sanded it to 2500 grit. I've put a few coats of Tung Oil on it but can still feel tiny fissures along the grain. What is the best way to fix this issue? Thanks in advance.

Good thread, sorry about your experience. If I'm not mistaken AEB-L and 13C26 are the same steels.

Nice shop. In floor heating is definitely a plus.