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For me, one of the most frustrating things about making a knife is taking a perfectly ground and polished blade, gluing a rough guard and block of wood to it and then attempting to shape and polish all of these components together without damaging the blade. I usually end up in a circular...

Simple, clean and well executed. I like it.

I always keep the leftover acraglass in the mixing cup, and when it's been hard for an hour or so I will begin to work my handle, although I am strictly using hand tools to do so. I think you would be plenty good to go ahead and get going, especially if it has been pinned.

Ready for HT. To be the first knives of 2015.

That will make a wonderful gift!

I don't glue anything until I am ready for assembly. I temporarily stick things together with double sided sticky tape so I can work the handle and scales both together or separately as needed. Some scale materials such as G-10 or metal don't glue up well enough to mess with it, so the tape...

That is a neat and handy little knife. Nice work.

Nothing to complain about there. Nice work. The copper spacer is a nice accent.

Paul, and everyone else, thank you for the encouragement. There are some design elements that will be addressed in the future, such as using materials that better match those used in the construction of the knife. I'm working with bare bones materials and tools at this point so it is what it is...

There is a WIP around somewhere by Bruce Bump that shows how to do a CA (super glue) finish on a wood handle. I had similar issues with a piece of Spalted Maple and the CA finish made for a rock hard durable finish. The only downside, other than needing to be patient enough to see the process...

If the pores of the wood are open and clogging with metal dust it is not stabilized. If you are machine sanding, stop that and hand sand the handle, being especially cautious around the pin area. Later take the pins down flush with the wood with a very fine, thin, flexible hand file...

Thanks. Not to derail the thread but I do not have 220v available to me and am considering the 120v 18" oven (or perhaps even 14") as an entry level purchase. As future needs and growth permit I can make an allowance for a bigger, better, badder, etc oven. Currently I make on knife at a time...

I considered building a frog for this, and may yet, however for now the Sam Brown stud will allow for simple sheath retention between the belt and body, which (not being a professional) I believe is an acceptable no frills simple design option. (?) The blade is long enough and the fit tight...

Concerning 120v vs 220v on the 18" what is the difference in wait time to heat to say 1700 degrees?

Nice throwing knife.

Here is a lined sheath I built today for a Camp knife I did awhile back. I royally screwed up the first attempt with a bunch of unnecessary tooling, so I toned it down a bit and worked within the parameters of my current abilities. A sewing machine would be nice to have, lol. Comments and...

Thanks for the comments guys, they are much appreciated.

Thanks Colin, I'll be sure to get one. And thank you Paul for taking the time to make these very informative videos.

I finally caught a short break to post up some recent work. Here is my latest and final order to leave the shop in time for the Holidays. Your observations and comments are welcome. 1084 differentially hardened steel Bronze guard and fittings Eucalyptus wood handle OAL 9 1/2" with a 4 1/8"...

There is a lot more to a good even grind than simply clamping in a jig and going to town. I have a very nicely made grinding jig and it is still very easy to screw up the plunge. I find the best use of a jig to be for truing up the grinds with a hand file after I'm finished on the grinder just...