Search results

I always drill holes slightly over-sized. For a 1/8" pin I use a #30 bit to drill the hole, this gives about .0035" clearance... this gives room for the epoxy, makes assembling the handle much easier, and removes any chance of splitting the scales. For 3/16" pins I'd use a #12 drill bit.

Yes, they can be annealed, but you need to know the steel type...

I suggest finding out where you are going to have it heat-treated, and then choose your steel accordingly. There are a few places that won't treat oil-hardening steels.

In my experience the tempering colors quickly rub off if the knife is used. I've seen charts that show 1095 to be 58-60rc with a 500 degree temper, and files likely are 1095/w1 with a higher carbon content than usual (this based on my own experience with making and testing knives made from...

I've noticed wet forming the leather that it dries harder than it was before. Lately I saw a tutorial by a guy who used alcohol instead of water to wetform, so I decided to try it... the leather got considerably harder than expected after it dried, and it took only an hour or so for it to dry...

The spine groove is a nice touch (don't see that very often), and I like the stout point.

W1 tool steel, and that's about it....

Very nice. The wood has a subtle beauty, as do the knives....

Glad to have you aboard....:) Here's mine...

Simple, practical, and beautiful... well done man.

I was hoping more people would jump on board, and being an unrepentant optimist I still hope they will. Honestly, is there a simpler type of knife to make? Is there a quicker type? Perhaps we need to go back to that thread and remind/pester/guilt-trip them....:)

I don't use oak often, but came across some oak burl once that was quite nice. I soaked the finished handle overnight in boiled linseed oil mixed with turpentine (50/50 mix). Wipe off the excess oil afterwards, give it a week and wax. I was very pleased with the results.

I did a google search on "accurate+small+oven" and came across some interesting information, but it also has lead me to believe I can make a better oven for tempering knives than I can find on the shelf. I need one big enough to temper sword blades anyway, since I'm in the process of forging a...

Well, the time is fast approaching, we have 1 month, I think, to finish. I'll be posting a photo of mine tomorrow, the knife is finished and just needs a sheath. I went to a hammer-in last month, and a fellow forged a Japanese style chef's knife. I've never seen someone forge a blade so close...

The curie point, or critical temp for steel is 1414f, this is the point where steel will loose its magnetism (different sources actually give different temperatures, ranging from 1360f to 1414f). To do a sub-critical anneal you want to stay under this temperature, you do not want the steel to...

Heat to 1325f for an hour (just under non-magnetic), let cool overnight. This will basically, in non-metallurgical speak, temper the heck out of them (sometimes called a sub-critical anneal). They will not be as soft as a full textbook anneal, but they will be soft enough to drill and file...

Deer bone is also much stronger than beef bone.

I've used acraglass and g-flex, prefer the g-flex because it is easier to mix... they are both a huge step up from the stuff you can buy at home depo. They both take forever to cure, but are well worth it. It might be interesting to note, if you buy g-flex in the quart containers it is...

I'm having trouble picturing this, any chance you could show a pic to help illustrate your point? Hide the maker's mark to protect the guilty, of course....

Praise God and good to have you back Bubba. That is an awesome testimony. Brad, the one that really blows my mind is John 17:23...:) 'even as you loved me.'