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Thank you, Steve. We had Xmas a few days early so I have already got to watch him break it out and cut a bunch of stuff that "needed" cutting. Making knives for people is so cool. I wish I could deliver them all in person.

My Dad hikes a lot so I built him a knife that is as light possible but can still be a knife that he can rely on. It's .150" at the ricasso, 4" of cutting edge and 8.5" OA. The steel is 154cm and the handle is stabilized figured Maple with carbon fiber and hidden pins. Thanks for looking. All...

I recently bought some wildebeest horn scales from Jantz. It seems really oily and somewhat soft on the dark side. What, if anything, needs to be done to this stuff to make it knife handle worthy?

Is the reason people anodize and not heat color for uniformity?

You could promote spinning them and doing tricks like in the Tombstone movie:)

I looked at this post a while back and wasn't sure how I felt about the hole. Tonight I see that no one has commented yet so I want to give it a go since I appreciate your comments. IMHO if the hole could be moved back by extending the ricasso it would be an asset when using the gut hook in a...

I have modified a 10" grizzly contact/drive wheel to run on my KMG and have noticed uneven ware on the edges resulting in extra work to get plunges even. Got any ideas or experience on fixing this? I was thinking of putting it back on the griz so it can be spun but don't know where to go from...

Right on! Good to hear your back in action.

That's a cool knife. I like how the plunge, bronze and scale figure run parallel.

Wow, you guys made my day. Thank you for the compliments. @rmbonham- The kirinite is surprisingly good wet and slimy but it is not the greatest fillet knife handle material. The brass obviously isn't the best for salt water conditions either. To the recipient this style was important. Thank...

I like the height of your grind and fit and finish. Beautiful work.

Handles are 5.5" of brass and kirinite and the AEB-l blades are 9" long and .070" Thick at the bolster. Any critiques are appreciated.

Thank you for letting me know what you think. You're right, it is a bit non-traditional, I think that's why I had so much fun making it. Thanks Matt

This is my latest experiment. Critiques and comments are appreciated. This one is 1084 hand sanded to 400 grit with a mirror polish on the file work and a tapered tang. The handle is G10 and Ironwood with copper pins. The blade is 4" and the handle is 5". The thickness at the ricasso is...

Hey Laurence, Maybe we should take a tour, check things out back there. We could stop off in New Mexico to sell the rest of your purple handled knives and then off to The Great Smokey Mountains where knives are knives and hunting is actually a good thing.

That looks like a real handy design. Nice work!

SUCCESS! I heat treated two .70" thick blades today and they both flex and come back to center perfectly! I am surprised they don't flex more than they do but I think I'll get a little more out of them when the bevels are ground. Thank you for all the help. The poor .125" blade that I...

14" over all. I didn't think about the steel being to thick. I flexed pretty hard. Harder than a salmon would. I'm "attempting" a ht of the same model but .70" think as I write this. I'll do everything the same and see if the thinner steel has any memory. One way or another I'll learn something...

I don't have any fancy tester but my 60 RC file skated and no penetration with a quality drill bit. To the best of my knowledge it got hard. I did a dry ice/denatured alcohol treatment before the temper cycles.

I heat treated a 14" AEB-l fillet knife that is .125 thick and it won't come back to center when flexed. It seems to me that I need to adjust tempering temperature but I don't know if the blade should be harder or softer. I tempered twice at 400 for 2 hours. Any help would be greatly appreciated.