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Looking for about 6" of each. would like to try it. Just can't find any in stock right now. Aaron

here is the cross draw style sheath i made for the knife. Was going for black when i dyed the leather, turned out chocolate... what do you think about the sheath?

Redwood burl stabilized, is what the handle material is. Man i can tell you i worked long and hard on the shaping of the handle. making sure it was symmetrical. Most of it was done by hand sanding. I am really enjoying my self on these last few knives I have made. thanks for the comments guys...

here is one that is almost done. I finished the handle today. Now off to leather smithing!!!

well it turns out that my Iphone takes better pictures than my nikon coolpix.. My brother wanted to see pics of the knife, I just pulled into the parking lot at work and took the pictures and they turned out better than I had expected,,, thanks for all the kind words guys.. i am having fun...

ha ha yes 3/32" thick..

Hey guys what do you think about my user? O1 tool steel 3/23 thickness. blued, black MOP kirinite scales with stainless pins and tube. 7.25" OAL

Nice, i like it!

thanks guys, Not sure if i am doing the fillet knife or a skinning knife... depends of what my friend wants... right now they don't know what they want

Thank you Kevin Cashen!! that is what i had hoped to hear. and thanks to everyone else that chimed in!!!

So is what i am experiencing normal for the thickness of O1 I am using? When i brake the blade, i tighten the bench vise on the tip most quarter of the blade and I grab the handle with 2 hands and pull it. I cannot gauge how much force i am exerting and maybe i am worried about nothing. I am...

So I heat treat my O1 in a kiln. I normalize at 1200* for 10 minutes let cool to room temp. I place in the kiln at 1480* for about 10 minutes then quench in 120* canola oil. I let cool to room temp, and cold soak in a bath of alcohol and dry ice -80*F. (read a white paper on the benefits of cryo...

I should add ... the steel will have to be easily heat treated by me. I have a kiln/ oven to work with..

Okay, I still have two finished blade blanks, I might re-temper at 450* I would have to find it, I read a white paper by a tool company that talked about the benefits of cryo treating O1 for tools, they were able to show that cryo treating a cutting tool extended the cutting life more than...

sorry guys posted in the wrong forum.. I started a new post in the heat treat area....

I have been asked to make a fillet knife. I use O1 and 1084. will any of those work for a fillet knife? Any suggestions is appreciated. Aaron

thought I would share 3 knives this I just finished up.. I can't seem to get the picture thing down. I need a light box!!! the pink burl knife is O1 steel, 3/32 thick blued about 7.5" OAL the other 2 are 1084 steel 1/8" and 9" OAL.

Scott, i think we are on the same page. they are the same color and the grain structure are almost identical.. i guess it is hard to describe without a picture. i am going to go with it.. i'll try to post a pic of the wood lateer

is it okay to use non matched scales? to clarify they are matched but not bookend matched. how much does that matter? just curious

Do I need to do anything to Cocobolo? I have tied poly with mixed results, what about shellac? is it possible to get a finish on cocobolo wood that does not need to be touched up?