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For a user type knife I think a sheath should be included with the knife. I have only sold one knife without a sheath and that is only because the guy who bought it wanted to make the sheath himself. Think about it this way...you are going to buy a new car and you find two cars that meet all...

Great story!

Nice job on both of them. One thing I would do is make it all from the same peice of leather instead of sewing on a belt loop but that's just the way I do it.

nice job!

The tapers are forged in so drilling them before I start hammering wouldn't be a good idea. This is why I think a jig would be very helpful.

I found a couple pics of a jig I think will work. Thought I would post them in case someone else was interested. These came from Tracy Mickley's site. Thanks Tracy!

Once you get it looking like you want it just be aware that the feric cloride finish is not durable and will wear off rather quickly with use. If you want a more permenant darkening look at parkerizing your blade. Midway USA sells two solution for this and it isn't really hard to do. I think...

I have seen jigs posted for this but didn't pay much attention because I didn't need them at the time and now I can't find them. When you have a tapered tang and flat scales the angle is going to be off slightly by the amount of taper in tang if you just lay them flat on the table and drill. So...

I make a lot of forged full tapered tang knives and need to build a jig to drill handle material like bone and antler. I boogered up a nice set of camel bone scales trying to force the pin thru. This doesn't seem to be a problem using wood or mircata but that bone was really hard and it...

Didn't Musashi cut his boken from one of the oars used to bring him to the island?

One other thing to do before heat treating is to make sure the sanding lines on the blade are running length wise not across. Those tiny little scratch lines can cause stress risers expecially if the blade was over heated or not normailzed. When I get too aggressive and take the bevel too thin...

I have been using the same pail of Houghton's K quench for the past 3 years and it has worked beautifully. I get nice hamons on the knives I clay coat. I use it for 1095, 1084 and 5160. One thing that will greatly shorten the life of your quench is edge quenching. The oil will catch fire and...

Thanks Wade! I have number 2 tempering now. Gonna be next week before I get to work on it any more.

This is my first attempt at making a hawk. Mild steel with a 1084 bit. I think I can add making hawks to my growing list of steel addictions.

I did use a drift it after I folded and welded it. But this being my first one I sure my process wasn't exactly right. The pivot point is near the middle of the eye. I have contact in several places mostly on the sides and back of the eye. I heated it up this weekend and worked on the eye a...

I have made my first hawk and am trying to get a good fit on the handle. I can slide it to within about 3 inches of the end of the handle and it stops there. I know I will have to remove material from either the eye of the handle. Is it better to one or the other or a combination of both...

Very sweet hawk!!

Hey I got my thingamabob yesterday too. It was funny how the letter carrier drives up the driveway, rings the bell and bows in reverance while holding out the envelope! Thanks Beth and Boss!

I got a package in the mail from Tracy on feb. 30 this year and when I opened it there was one of those in there and it was solid ubotainium. With it was a note that said this will open the lock at the end of the rainbow where the pot of gold was replaced by a strong box because the leprechaun...

You going to start forging Art? Come over some time and I'll let you bang out a knife shaped object.