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The tip up carry started when flippers caught on and became popular. If you carry a flipper tip up, when it is taken from the pocket, the flipper will not snag and open the blade.

Whether you are proud of your work or not, show it. You will get some remarks and that is what you are looking for.

Just make sure the blade is made of M-2. Regular blades for steel will not work.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000902/4004/Slick-Strips-3-Width.aspx Try this from Woodcraft. I use this on my tool rest and it helps. It has to be replaced from time to time, but nothing lasts forever.

Yes sir, I have. Also can be done to a stop pin.

Hey Stabber. How have you been? My post got the descriptions on this one screwed up. I've used this system on pivot screws for a long time.

This is the rest. Pics got out of alignment. If I have you confused, send me a message. I have used this for a long time.

For those that have not seen this, it has been post several times. This is how to stop a screw from moving. Drill as shown on 8-32 screws and it can be done on a 6-32 screw but not any smaller. I use weed eater line. Never has a screw back out. You have to make a drill block that fits your...

I'll tell you that you won't like a slip joint or a lock back with bearings. Too easy to lose control on your blade opening. When you say that your liners are .048 and too thin for bearings, then get a thicker liner. When I started bearings I had a bunch of .050, .060 Ti. Still got it and...

Try magnetsource.com

Yep, those are my pictures of the surface grinder. I was off line for a while trying to get my meds right and recovering from an offstate condition and did not see the posts asking about the surface grinder. I put the surface grinder on a stand with a PM motor and PM controller. I also made...

I use bearings that are .062 and I counterbore .042 into Ti liner for pivot bearings. This gives .020 clearance between blade and liner.

On damascus blade with ball bearings, you leave a polished area for bearings to run. I run bearings against Ti all day long, no problem. So does a lot of makers.

The one I have is not built of tubing. It is all solid metal. Even the aluminum. I have rebuilt a lot of the mounting. Mine will use 2-1/2 X 48 or 2-1/2 X 72 belts simply by sliding it in and out. The accuracy is better that most full size upright grinders. Just checked mounting steel and...

Here are the pics you requested.

I was in the process of building the surface grinder and saw the one Travis was building. I bought one from him. I surfaced a blade blank for a 4" blade and after doing both sides I checked with a micrometer and it held to .1245 every half inch all the way around the blade.

Having been a pipe welder for 40 years, I can say that someone did a good job on the welding.

On the jig I built, I grind hollow grinds, flat grinds, recurves, 3 or 4 different top clip grinds. All of the blades I grind have lots of curve to them.

My post was about makers sharing knowledge with other makers. I spend a lot of my time researching how to do something in making a knife and it can turn into weeks and months. This is why I don't like to share some things. Things that have taken me away from knives. I built a jig for my use...

I don't see how your platen is ground away if it is just plain steel like A 36. The platen I use I made from A36, which is a very common steel. It is 2.5" wide, 8" long, .375" thick, and has been on the grinder for 2 years. It has not lost any of the flat since I put it on. I flat grind on...