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Mine are 2"X12"X12":biggrin:

Nice place, happy for you.

And you can cut chunks off them for handle material.

Gonna have to disagree with Darrin on this one. As long as your foil pouch had no leaks and you did'nt get any major decarb on the blade I don't think there should be any problems, with controlled temps you should have not gotten any grain growth and controlled atmosphere it should be fine...

Counter sink the backs of the bolsters to allow room for the screw head. Put the bolster on the liner and spot drill throught the liner side then remove bolster and drill deep enough to give clearance for the screw head.

I'll be there ,look forward to seeing you again Calvin.

Cool

Nicer in person,got to play with this one last weekend at Johnny Stouts. Really nice

I agree with Jeff,I believe that is your best to date. Heck of a job.

I agree with Jason. Drill it out and start over,I've done more than once,especially if the pin won;t hide. Stan

410 liners and 416 bolsters, they are so close that you won't see a color change from bolster to liner. Stan

Here is a thread that talks about it http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?33583-Kirinite-vs-Other-Acrylics-%28Acrylester%29-Your-input-please!

I use cpm 154 for the blade and spring. Temper the spring at 1135 for 2 hours. Stan

Definitely wrong flux. You need a flux made for stainless steel. sta-brite solder and flux work well together. Stan

This is the one I use,works well. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/benchtop-power-supply-csi12001x.html Stan

Really nice work, sir. Now it's good to go for another 70-100 years Stan

http://www.knifeandgun.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=belt+grease&Search.x=18&Search.y=17 Here you are Vern.

Go to the very bottom of the page, on the left side and change back to blue / gray

Mike,get Linda Karst Stone's video. Should give him a good start. http://www.karstone.com/video.html Stan

For me it depends on blade thickness. For 3/32" blade I use .040,for 1/8" or thicker I use .050-060. Stan