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ND, thanks for the compliment. As to the blade flex, the answer in my case is "heck if I know." :D When it comes down to it, the style of knives I make don't have any need to flex to 90 degrees and return without taking a set. Maybe if I was making a blade with the geometry of a filet...

I'll bite. Most of these have been posted here or elsewhere in the past, but here's a few. I do almost exclusively flat grinds.... The above knife is forged W2 with redwood burl scales. Bevels were forged in, and the bevels and plunge were cleaned up afterwards. It has a full distal...

O1, and other carbon steels, will patina with food use. An onion has pretty stout acid. I had an L6 blade that developed an instant patina when I cut a banana. Higher grit finishes/mirror finishes resist it more because of less surface area exposed, but even they will tend to color over time...

Gotta love barrels...they roll nicely on their edge :D. Good looking post anvil! --nathan

For a 2hp motor, you'll need 220V single phase input. As Wayne stated, the VFD converts that input into 3 phase to the motor. You'll need a 3 phase motor. I have TEFC's running on my 2x72" grinders because of the load they have placed on them. Also, 30 minutes may sound reasonable, but...

You can buy them single or in pairs. How you wire you elements in the oven varies by what power you're supplying. If you want to run 220V, run two elements in series. If you want 110V, run a single element. It will not produce nearly as much heat with a single element and thus longer heating...

You can get pre-wound kanthal at www.budgetcastingsupply.com. (under furnace components) --nathan

I'd suggest getting the SSR output PID instead. Perhaps this one: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3 As for SSR, I'd say this one: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=9 Your Kanthal wire should pull about...

The Park's #50 is a fast oil for 1095, W2, etc. (a good one, too), and the AAA is medium speed (for the likes of O1 and others). --nathan

Here's a page from my website that you might find useful when heat treating. Just a collection of datasheets that can come in handy: http://www.burgessknives.com/34601.html --nathan

As long as you're not doing a super thin fillet or really long blade, I have no troubles hardening after grinding my bevels. I take the bevels down to 1/32" on the edge before quenching. As long as you grind evenly, it shouldn't be a problem. Heat treating O1: bring it up to 1450-1500F...

I'll make a knife to the best of my ability. What my customers do with it is up to them. I may do a "working" 400-600 hand finish or a satin machine finish on a heavy use blade, but I don't think that really falls into the "pre-dinged" category. One of the things I always admired about Jay...

Rex, you should be good on the hamon if there is one there. It will be a feature pretty much all the way through the steel. I grind my W2 blades after heat treating. You are right that you will cause your hamon to disappear when grinding, but once you get back to 400 grit on the grinder...

I did several layers of satanite to secure the kaowool lining. Then I used the Mizzou to lay a more durable and flux resistant floor. I've got a page on my website where I documented the lining process I went through for my forge (in the Shop Tour page) if you're interested. You can do a...

I'd say wipe the entire thing down with WD40 or Danish oil. The exposed thread ends tend to pick up stains. --nathan

Heating an oil will LOWER its viscosity, as you said, making it more loose. I believe this helps in the dissipation of the vapor jacket and allows a faster coolling. Chilling your oil will just make it less effective as the viscosity (resistance to movement) increases. This means the oil...

James, my search-fu work much betta than you. :D From what I've read, soak your blank overnight in vinegar (it may take longer...maybe up to 36 hours if the scale is bad), and then you can scrub the mill scale off with a scotch brite pad. You can use something stronger, but fumes are no...

Looks good! Though I know some don't like it, handle shaping is one of my favorite parts of building a full tang knife. --nathan

Hey, boss. Just to let you know, all of my VFD driven motors click when running. I don't know, but it may be inherent in how 3 phase motors run? It looks great, btw! Check out ACE hardware for springs of something akin to Sutherlands. Good selections for the most part. --nathan

Great looking knife! Good of you to do. --nathan