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It's a little small, but you could mount a flat disc to that 1/3hp motor for truing up flats. Mine is running off of a 3/4hp motor. -nathan

Yeah, I'm at a loss to that one as well... So this blade was clayed? Were both sides clayed symmetrically? I wonder if too much heat bled down to the edge preventing a full hardening. As to the oil temp, as long as you're at room temp (at least with Parks#50 that I'm used to), you should be...

What did you use to heat the blade? Are you sure of your temps? How long did you leave it in the oil after quench? How hot was it when you laid it on your bench? My first thought related to the lack of hardness is that while checking for straightness prior to quenching, your thin tip or...

Cable glands are the bee's-knees. That's what I used. You can occasionally find them in the big box stores like Sutherlands. I haven't had luck finding them in Lowes or Home Depot. --nathan

I had a PM about costs related to building the oven, so I thought I'd post my reply here as well. This is a rough estimate, as it's been several years since I put this together.

Here's some pictures of mine: Here's a rough wiring diagram of how I set my oven up: Here's a good thread to read through as well when I was setting my oven up: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=506521&highlight=Oven+SSR+PID NOTICE!!: The wiring diagram in the above...

Better than calipers is a height gauge. That's what I use for all my blades now. --nathan

Good jobs for first grind! The high spot you're getting on your bevel next to the plunge is a fairly common thing when you're starting out. I've found it's most often due to rocking the blade in horizontal so that the edge of the belt next to the plunge is doing the grinding. To avoid that...

Jeff, there's no real formula, just math. As long as the difference between the stock and the bit size is 1/32" bigger or smaller, when you scribe one line and flip the stock over and scribe the second line, the two lines will be 1/32" (0.03") apart. Here's a very crude sketch (sorry...I'm no...

Easiest way is to go to your drill bit set and pick the 2nd smallest bit down from your steel thickness (if you have a full fractional set). If you're steel is 1/8", use a 3/32" bit. The center for the 1/8" bit will be at about 0.0625". The center for the 3/32" will be at 0.0469". The...

Here's another one I picked up from Bruce: I took a short but stout spring, and use it to apply pressure to guards while they are setting up with JB Weld or before soldering (I've still gotta learn that one). I place a file guide on my vise, put the spring on top of that, and press the...

Looks good! I would suggest lining one of the slots with leather, especially the ends of the slot. That way, you don't have to worry about marring your blade against the steel. I just used wood to get around that. Here's my 5-minutes-to-throw-together (literally) handle clamp that I made...

Is it bouncing on the wheel, or is the belt being "grabby"? I've found that some brands of belts tend to be grabbier than others, though 120 grit shouldn't be too much of a problem. If it is the belt grabbing the blade, make sure keep the belt dry and wipe off any extra water after each dunk...

Good to see you back on the boards, James! --nathan

This is the only knife I've used white spacers on to this point. In my mind, it takes the right combo of handle material and spacer to make it work. This knife was for my sister, and it looked really nice on this small EDC with the purpleheart. Glad you guys like the knife. Thanks! --nathan

I have used purpleheart on one knife, and I used a heat gun to darken it up. I didn't have the wood stabilized (don't know how well it stabilizes as it's a pretty oily wood), and I finished it to a medium-high grit by hand (600 or so) and then used danish oil. Apply multiple coats allowing it...

The KB is a great unit. I bought a 2hp TECO FM50 (basically a NEMA1 enclosure) and built a clean box for it for my KMG. It's worked great so far as well. Basically, all you need to do is find a VFD that takes 220V single phase and converts it to 220V 3 phase. Make sure it's rated for at...

JA, I haven't had trouble holding temps. I can hold anywhere from around 1500F all the way up to 2300+F (which is as hot as I've had it). It actually seems harder to hold the lower temps because there is such a small difference between hi and low stages, and it's difficult to get a slightly...

NICE! I think I could pull that off! Just need a surface grinder first :(. --nathan

The short answer is no. Those stainless grades are reserved for "furniture" (guards, bolsters, fittings, etc). They will not harden sufficiently for a knife blade. Hang on to 'em, and lable them clearly so that you can use them in the future! --nathan