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Chris, those are very nice! My sheaths will never be as nice as those are. Thanks for sharing. Dale

I use my Bader, and set it to about 15% speed, and start with a 120 grit J-Flex, then 220, and then 800 and finish with a felt belt and green compound, to polish the edge. I sharpen edge down, using a blade clamp, and jig, to hold the set angle. Here is a pic. I have never had an issue with...

Thanks for the pic Paul, that sure looks great. Stew, my customer wants them stacked, and here are some pics of knives, like the ones he will get. Caping knife Hunter These are not the exact knives, but are like what he wants, they will have matching handles, and the hunter will have a...

I have used an air brush, the kind used by model builders, it works prety good.

Not ugly at all, functional for a working knife, I like them. I have a hard time making sheaths, the least favorite part of knifemaking for me.

I have an order for a hunting knife and a caping knife set, to be carried in one sheath. Does anyone have any ideas on doing this kind of sheath? Sheath work is a real struggle for me, and I could use some ideas, pictures of double sheaths. Any help would be appreciated. Dale

Not sure, but I don't think 304 SS will harden to make a good blade, like I say I am not sure of that. They sure look good though. Dale

Thanks guys for your input. I don't put alot of stock in the brass rod test either, but I normally do not have an edge roll and stay in that position, so that kinda worried me at first, but so far the real cutting test looks good, I may drop down to 400 on the temper for the next one. Thanks...

I made a test blade from CPM154, and my heat treat recipe is to pre heat to 1400, hold for 20 min. and heat to 1950, and hold for 50 min. then plate quench, with a fan blowing across the plates, when cool enough to handle, temper at 425 for 2 hours, air cool then repeat at 425 for 2 hrs. The...

Looks great, I wish my first looked half that good. I struggle with sheaths even after making, I don't know how many.

Looks great, the color is a big improvment over the green.

I am a remover, and do both, but mostly flat grinds, I like the added strength in the edge of the flat grind and when ground thin you sacrafice very little in cutting perfomance. Dale

If you just want a domed pin, not swelled or peened. Chuck your pin in a drill, a drill press works best, and turn it on, and using a file, round the end of the pin slightly, and then finish with sand paper up through the grits to your desired finish, and cut to the proper length, and do the...

Well, just an update, I suspended my quench plates 6 inches above the bench top, to allow free air flow around them from my fan, and still have the neatest little curve in the blade, a friend told me I was making left handed fillet knives, not to change a thing, unless I wanted a right hander...

ARCustoms. You may be on to something, it just hit me thinking about your post. My bottom plate lays on a bench, and I place a fan blowing across them, the top plate may be cooling faster than the bottom one, that could explain every blade warping exactly the same. My plates are 1 inch aluminum...

Stan, I thought the same thing about the hole. I treated the second blade today, and left it between the plates untill it was cool, with the same results, exactly the same, the bend is the same direction, and about the same amount, I am about to pull my hair out. I have one more to try, this...

I second amcardon's method with tru-oil. Dale

Thanks Stan for the reply. Yes my plates are flat, and I preheat to 1200, hold for 15 minutes, and raise to 1880 and hold for 30 minutes, but I do remove the blades from the plates before they are room temp, I try to catch that stage when they are some what buttery to straighten any warp, but...

I have 2 fillet knives to make, these will be 4th and 5th fillet knives for me, the last 2 gave me some problems warping in the heat treat, that I done after grinding the bevels, one was bad and had to be remade, the other one was very slight, so I thought this time that I would grind after heat...

I have had good results from Brownells Tough Quench, I heat it to 150 degrees F when quenching 1095. It is a medium speed oil so is perfect for O1 steel when used at room temp. Parks 50 is the oil of choice for 1095, but is hard to find in small quanities, and is costly. Someone here may be able...