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I'm not certain, but I would expect 1080 full hard to be about HRC 65.

That is a measure of the time it takes some standard shape to go from one temperature to another in the oil. Parks 50 is almost as fast as water - I believe it is a 9 second oil. The 11 second oil is said to work with 1095, but it is borderline, forming pearlite in thick sections like the spine...

The best oil is an oil designed for quenching. 5 gallons of quench oil is about 60 bucks from McMaster. 5 gallons is plenty of oil. The "11 second oil" is intended for use on 1080 and similar steel.

Well, that sucks. Light mineral oil sounds right. Did you warm the oil to about 130-140? It is counter intuitive, but warming the oil increases the quench speed by reducing the viscosity. Did you agitate well? Are you sure you don't have 1095, which requires a very fast quench? If all...

The "quench speed" of ATF is not a property they're trying to control (obviously), so there is nothing in there to reduce vapor jackets - so compared to an industrial quench oil it will be a little slow and uneven during the start of the quench, and a bit faster than ideal towards the end of the...

Cool set.

Yeah. That is a heck of a lot better. Nicely done.

Vet supply houses have it cheap in bulk, I think it is used as a stool softener for livestock. I believe that HT oil is 99%+ mineral oil with additives to reduce oxidation and fire and control the vapor jacket. You'll want to be sure to agitate very well to get an even quench with a poor...

If your Rockwell hardness is not approximately what it is supposed to be at a given tempering temperature, simply adjusting that temper temp to get the RC value you're looking for may not address the fundamental problem. If the hardness is not in the expected range, that may indicate that you...

No, not really. I think you should follow Josh's suggestions and get your "groove" working. I was simply clarifying something he had said. You will find that once you have a nice wide well established hollow you will learn how to follow that hollow and make adjustments. You will also find...

I'll dust off this example Here is an extreme example of what I'm talking about This was almost completely ground before the profile was finished.

Cool man. And the knife you showed me was excellent. Please let me clarify a little, my grinding "tip" was mostly about grinding tips. I tend to lose a little control when grinding a pointy profile - so I have found it helps to leave a little meat behind the tip until you're done, and finish...

Josh, those were great explanations. I have nothing much to add to that. Mike, Steel is cheap and most of the time in making a knife comes after this stage. That is a big improvement over what you started with. But once the grind lines get that washed out it is hard to bring it back...

I wouldn't disagree with that. I expect you probably use the "SharpFinger"? That is a classic. I used to use a Buck 119 (heavy and clunky in retrospect). And I ended up blunting the back of the tip slightly to reduce accidental nicks. When I went to a drop point I found that I could...

Thanks Jason I like this kind of drop point because it doesn't nick meat (or bladders or intestines) as much as a clip point, I like the pronounced belly at the tip for cutting skin, and I like the narrow tip for reaching up inside of the pelvis for disconnecting intestines and reproductive...

I designed this shape specifically for how I process a deer: Hard thin D2, with a HT optimized for fine edge stability. Good stuff.

Hey Dave, good to see ya.

Nothing cool, just lots of work right now...

I'm glad that worked so well for you. I have not had a lot of luck face milling on foam tape (due to precision and surface finish problems) and I have gone almost exclusively to "Precision Max" super glue for that sort of thing. I run a face mill over some REN, drop a few drops of the CA and...

Well hello Mr. Carter - a pleasure to see you here.