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Or you could branch out..... This smith had a spike that was fairly high in carbon and decided to play with it, to a great result!

Looks great, hoss! That's almost exactly how mine turned out, except I didn't go with a VFD and still haven't finished the flat platten. To enclose your VFD, think outside the box. Lunch pails, ammunition cans and small tool boxes can be adapted, and a bit of paint will make them blend right...

I absolutely love your work. It's amazing how you can combine the right colors with the right pieces with the right design and come up with something that looks so fantastic. Of course, as a black-powder buff, I'm always keen to see what others are doing. Though, my handiwork isn't anything...

Having seen your work, I'm wondering how you can get better?!

Nice article, even though we don't "melt" the steel and then pound it to shape. It's nice to see mention of the craft. I'd like to see you guys package up your 5160 cut-offs and scrap to sell to knife-makers. As has been mentioned before, using old springs can be tricky because we don't know...

Beautiful. The roughness of the head and that aging process you do really makes it something. If I didn't know better, I would have thought I was looking at a real relic from the Plains days. Fantastic all the way around.

Awesome work. You had me all the way to the end!

So we have until July to get a knife made? I just might have enough time! No theme? Handle material? Blade shape? Just run what ya brung? Definitely cool with that. Count me in.

Very nice work. I'm working on a similar style guard that I don't know will ever get finished, and the dimensions have really been kicking my butt. It's easy to say "this should be right" but you won't know until you get it all said and done nearly. My idea is to keep the guard as small as...

What do I want in a forge? Sized right for the majority of knives we work on as beginners. I'm not running a production shop, so even the HT is limited to one or two blades at a time. Max length, imo, should be around 14", but that could be reduced considerably if you work the longer blades...

I've used a 10" serrated wheel since I started on this path. Works great for 90% of what I do, and I can even get halfway decent flat grinds with it. I'm not a big fan of hollow grinds, and would love to try a 14" wheel someday.

Oak is a great wood to work with, but a lot of the problems we see isn't so much about the wood as the matching of wood to knife design. Some blades look right with micarta. Others, like we've see in this thread, look great with a plain oak handle. Burls are always sexy! I'm interested in...

It's doing great, hoss! If it's not sitting in my truck's cup holder, serving as my day-to-day work knife, it's in hand at the wood pile making shavings as I learn to whittle. The handle shape is just the right size to fit my hand comfortably and the blade length is great for fine control and...

jDW, that's pretty much how it works. Sometimes the KITH has a specific theme (blade type or handle material), but it's generally just a way to swap knives between makers. I've only done one KITH and that was on another board. Kinda left me with a bad vibe because I never got any feedback...

My biggest problem is suiting the handle material to the blade. Some knives just don't seem to want this color or that grain pattern, or the handle material I like doesn't go with the liner colors or steel type... I like to have a decent variety of woods, micarta, and some antler, to pick from.

Ted Yost Colt 1911A1 Series 80 with Gator Grips. CZ75B, semi-custom by me! Both are great guns, but I actually prefer the 75B because of the cost of ammo and the quick return to target that the lighter round allows. Having double the ammo doesn't hurt, either.

Yea, I'd pay a c note for that in a skinny minute. Even if I had to replace the motor, it would be a cool tool to have in the shop. If only it was closer to home....

Ain't much you can do about the lost faceplate at the heel, but you still have plenty of anvil left for knife making and general blacksmithing. Take the rust off the face and get to work making some blades.

G10 is a nasty material to cut because the fine dust is irritating to the eyes/nose/throat/lungs. It's just fiberglass and epoxy, basically, and you can imagine getting that all through you! Not hard to cut, but not easy either. I dremel and cutting wheel will do the job, but I like using a...

Mag, hope the dye trick works out for you. I applied mine at the last minute because I wasn't too keen on the green color of the handle. Be sure to give it a good scrubbing with hot soapy water after the dye as had a chance to dry. There always seems to be a little extra that wants to rub...