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Weld a bar of rebar to the end of the ball, cut it off when you are done.

If you have 1086 from Howard Clark, it is an excellent steel for waki's and produces a great hamon. If you have 1086 from another source or meant to type 1084, then I would agree with the other posters.

D2 is air hardening so you dont "need" quench plates. I would not put it on a cold anvil for fear of warping more than anything else. I would say the reason for your oil working better when warmed is an increase in viscosity more so than actual temp effect during the quench. I have no idea about...

I have had a surface grinder for a few years and never really use it because for me surface grinding is so slow and tedious that I cant stand doing it. So I decided to do a belt conversion to speed up the process. First I needed to make a base to mount the arm for the conversion assembly. I...

Anti scale compound on the blades works pretty well too and only costs like 15 bucks.

Mix the ferric three or four parts water to each part ferric. After your etch(ten or so minutes) , spray with windex and then water or acetone. Then lightly wet sand with high grit sandpaper to just hit the high spots. Repeat until you like what you see. If it is not correctly hardened, it will...

I found knife making to be a great hobby when having kids. I was into fly fishing, shooting sports, and hunting before the kids. I just don't have to time to take a whole day away on a regular basis for those activities, but I can go into the shop after their bedtime for an hour or two.

Awesome!

Cool, thanks!

looks great, would you be willing to explain the pattern development?

As someone who mostly forges, I really like having a kiln. I use the kiln to normalize, stress relieve, harden and temper and am confident in the final product. A blacksmith once traded me a some really nice dies for my power hammer for me heat treating two 25 pound power hammer dies of h13...

Coating the edge with anti scale or a thin wash of satinite should prevent nearly all decarb because if you are using stock removal you are really only heating the blade once for hardening. If you were forging to shape, I leave more than .040, personally.

If you are hammering on a machinist vise you can easily break it. Post vises are designed to send the shock down the post to the floor. I have one mounted on a wheel rim and a post and have been pleased with the setup.

What steels are you using?

soak in vinegar overnight and alot of the scale will dissolve. You can do a much shorter soak in hydrocloric acid but that is alot more dangerous to work with than vinegar.

My input: If you want a blade that can support a very thin edge, is easy to sharpen, has the ability to be heat treated with a forge and an oven and you dont mind that you will have to sharpen it more often and it will not be stain resistant: W2 If you want a blade that is harder to...

That surface grinder looks great. How deep of a cut can you take with it?

Cool but are they safe to eat off?

You can also try brine if you dont have the correct oil. You will probably crack some blades but it can be done.

I agree that 11 second oil could be too slow. Also my results with w2 ht with a kiln and parks 50 is that when you go too low on the temps you run the risk the hamon dipping too low or below the edge. I typically harden at 1475 for hamnon and 1500 on w2/15n20 damascus. I was actually getting an...