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Really great looking knife, especially for a first! You did a really great job on the handle and sheath. 1095 is a pretty simple high carbon steel, I use to have the trouble of it getting TOO hard and would end up cracking during heat treat using old canola oil. I got parks 50 and have not had...

I've never seen a coupon code for steel baron, but please do share if you find out how to get them. I've used 1095 from them also, word of caution, make sure to use good oil for heat treating 1095. I've cracked several due to using bad oil and perhaps getting them a little too thin. I would...

This knife believe it or not was also forged from a left over piece of a metal file used for a previous knife. This was my first attempt doing a lanyard hole tube, although the hole seems pretty small for 1/4", I'm not sure how useful it'll be. This was for the gift exchange yesterday. Wood was...

Another knife I forged from a metal file. This was my first time twisting the handle. Was originally meant for a gift exchange, but I decided to keep this one for myself instead. From start to a finished sharped knife took me about 3, maybe 4 hours tops to complete. Also my first time doing a...

This was commissioned from another coworker as a Christmas present for his 11 year old son that use to be in the cub scouts. Forged from 1095 steel and handle material is black palm. Close to 10" OAL. This knife was differential heat treated and tempered back with a blue spine (practice for when...

Knife forged from a metal file. The handle material is kirinite pepper jade from usaknifemakers. I was worried this would have a cheap feel to it like plastic, but it actually feels very nice in the hand and doesn't look bad.

This is my first chef knife made out of 1095. Also my first time doing metal bolsters from 416 stainless steel and first time doing white line spacers and my first hamon. Handle is all G10. This is also my first time doing any leather design work. Overall length is around 14 inches. Commissioned...

Awesome work, nice finish.

Very nice, I like the sheath, even though it is a simple design, it's attractive to the eye, and very good job on the distal tapper and drop point. The scales also appear to be very flush to the tang. The time and effort you put into this shows in the quality, overall I like it and good knife!

I like the curve and flow of the spine, gives the knife good character. Good job!

I'm very sorry to hear this. Sometimes taking a break from physically demanding activities is necessary and I hope you can continue making knives in the future (even if it's not as fast as you're use to). Just keep in mind, that any knife you make with this handicap will be that much more...

Really cool! That's one heck of a fork and knife to use at a dinner table!

Looks Great! I like the handle.

I thought I would share some pictures. Left it in a rough finish, used stainless pins, and first time using horse matt as handle material given to me as gift from George. Thanks again George! I also have a short clip of the heat treat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBiCjGe7w9E

Very nice! I also have a 1084 chefs knife I started over a year ago for someone, but haven't gotten to finishing it. Wish now I had done it in 1095 to put a hamon on it. What did you use to quench the blade in for heat treating to get the hamon activity if you don't mind me asking? Great job on...

Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to photograph the making the sheath or other final steps to completing this knife as this was completed the day before the gift exchange event. So here are some final pictures of the completed knife. I hope this process that I have outlined helps in...

Next we move up to 240 grit. Then 320. Then finally 400. Sorry for the lack of pictures of hand sanding, but there's not much of a visual difference as much as a difference in feel. With that in mind, its good from time to time to take off the glove and grip the handle to see how it feels and is...

Now it's time for our favorite part, more hand sanding! Just like before, wrap the part that is going to go into the knife vise with a towel. This is the sand paper that I use to hand sand handles. I start with 150 grit and progressively work my way up to 400 grit. We want to hand...

Now its time to go back to the grinder to sand down the wood handle. Here I used a 120 grit belt. Idea is to get it down to the thickness that you want and to get the tops and bottom flush to the metal. In hind sight, its probably a good idea to wrap some tape around the knife that was hand...

Now its time for pinning the pins in place. This is what really holds the handle together (not the super glue, the glue is just to help hold it in place and give the wood a seal). Is this example, I actually over cut it which is probably a mistake, you want the pins to be shorter and stick out...