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It might. Usually, those speed controllers are for universal motors (brushes) and the more typical grinder motor is the induction style. Even if it's single speed, you might rather have an induction motor on your grinder. Good luck with the build, Craig

I'd try the 4"x12"x28" chunk by itself. I'd guess if the mating surfaces weren't well machined, you'd be hammering on adhesive. Also, the heat will definitely get through the 1" hard plate. Hope it works out, Craig

I think a lot of the 'good' part of the Sea Robin anvil is the heat treat. If you weren't aware of it, Chuck's video is worth getting to explain the process. Not necessarily easy, but seems to be very worth doing (heat treat). A good strategy to try with a post type anvil is to cinch it down...

Hi Steve, Don't hold me a spot, but would you get too upset if I contacted you late in the game, begging for a squeeze in seat. Got a bunch on the ole plate now, but it sure sounds like a great weekend. Congrats for putting together the event. Take care, Craig

Dodge gives you a dollar off coupon for gloves in case the tailgate heater bites the dust.:eek:

You could try a practice grind with the al wheel just to see if it'll work. It may not clear the tension release and tracking adj as well as you might hope, especially if you're holding on to something with your left hand. It doesn't look like your tracking wheel has much of a crown, but it's...

You could try tracing your antler out as careful as possible and lay your blade on the pattern to see if you can modify it enough to work. You don't have to run the hidden tang all the way through the antler and I think there has been many pics of multipiece tangs that can manage curves. If it...

I don't think 3600 rpm is too fast, if it's what you have. I'd look at what pulleys would have made me happy for an 1800 rpm motor. Then, just half the motor pulley or double the grinder side pulley, or some combo of the two. What ever you end up with, mount it up nice and solid to minimize...

That's a pretty good budget Rey. I'd take a look at a KMG, and not worry about building and fiddling. I'd rather use 2x72" belts than the shorter ones. Good luck with it, Craig

Hi Frank, You make amazingly generous contributions of your hard earned knowledge. Thanks very much, Craig

If it were me, I'd follow the design. I think even RR admits that things have evolved on the design front. Don't rule out the modified sidearm burner design, very simple and no tuning headaches. Check out the zoellerforge website for another option on burner and forge builds, as well as Darren...

I like nice firearms type finishes on some knife parts, but the temps needed for nitre bluing may significantly change the temper on some blades and may not take properly on other blades. Take care, Craig

Hi Steve, Merry Christmas and nice website. Easy to get around in. Little problem though, what's a danaher, j/k. That's a really nice drop point hunter you generously kicked up Christmas a notch with. Take care, Craig

Hang in there Jeff. Best of luck for you and your wife. Work your way through these things and leave them behind early in the new year. Take care and Merry Christmas, Craig

I remember the c-man version, and hopefully this 'pro' model is a little sturdier. It's sort of a demo saw and the claim to fame was no kickback due to the counter rotating blades. Very wide kerf, and probably best for light gauge sheet metal as mentioned. If you do the pass around, I'd like to...

Naw, go with what Murph said. It really helps if the little criminals think you're crazy. You should be a proud papa, but dad, you still have a long way to go. Congrats, Craig

Just a thought, but consider wing nutting it down to a rock solid bench. You should be able to get it off in seconds, but you'll like the solidness and vibration control even better. Good looking stand though. Take care, Craig

If you come up empty, at least try to get down to the Janesville show. Should be able to meet a bunch of folks from your neck of the woods. Take care, Craig

Good cause with a handful of fun and suspense. I appreciate the generous donations and the crack team of moderators that made for some lively auctions. Seems safe to say the attention is well deserved. Take care, Craig

I believe for woodworking purposes, someone might consider a nonpenetrating finish. Oil based finishes seem to soak in and darken end grain more. On a handle, maybe a sanding sealer, or try superglue on the end grain or more likely pro stabilizing. Sometimes going to a higher grit on the end...