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Ray, something changed again and today I can access your site and see your photos - just like before - whatever the blockage was, it was temporary and "it's all fine now" (could have been a problem at my local Internet Service Provider - other sites were fine so I wanted to let you know in case...

Ray - I don't know if it's just something about my internet connection - but my computer won't load anything from hawknknives.com - including your photos in this posting... is it just me or is there an "issue" with hawknknives?

Thanks for posting the results - I really appreciate these sorts of impartial real-world tests!

Pedro - if you are referring to letting the belt curl a little over the side of the platen - it seems like all belt grinders set up for 2"x72" belts can generally do this. I use a Coote grinder - it's affordable - especially if you can scrounge an electric motor - & very basic...

Andrew: Nicely done video! Pedro: I'll reinforce something one of the others said: try setting the grinder at different heights - everybody's body type works differently - find what works for you. Ricasso & plunge lines - most bladesmiths use this style - me too mostly - but getting a nice...

Pedro - I take "bevel" to mean the angle of the grind - any angle. Andrew's notes look good to me. I do it a little differently, and your combination of tools, lighting, and your preferences = try some variations and see how they work for you in your shop. That said, I'll throw in a few things...

I've used some gel that I got at a welders' supply store - works fine if you are generous with the goop but is kind of messy. On the last couple of knives I used JB Weld instead of silver solder and bypassed the issue.

Comparagraph? Here's where I go to check %s of elements... http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/steelchart.php ... and here's W2 in particular: http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/steelchart.php?snm=w2

and yah - in my JB Weld tests the brass pieces could be popped apart by hand - I'd blamed that on my adding too much pigment to the JBW to try to hide the glue line but maybe it just doesn't like brass - - - JBW sure works great on steel!!

follow-up: I've had trouble (mentioned above) using medium silver solder to make a brass ferrule, then easy silver solder to attach /that/ to a much thicker brass guard. I experimented with JB Weld but it left a tell-tale line against the brass (might not show with steel fittings) so I went back...

Andrew - I did that too - ONCE with 5160. I gave up after a few bits of various sorts and used some welder's insulating gel @ ricasso and brought the tang back to spring steel. Page - diamond and light touch - that's one to file away for next time...

Franklin - thanks for asking the question! Kevin & Doug - I bet I speak for many when I thank you for your clear answers - especially making it understandable to a rube like me! And thanks for the book suggestions - they've been added to my look-for-list.

On the Fogg forum I mentioned "Daggers and Fighting Knives of the Western World" (http://www.amazon.com/Daggers-Fighting-Knives-Western-World/dp/0486417433) and Justin's notes above reminded me I've got another good reference piece on my bookshelf - a little saddle-stapled tract called "The...

Ray - your sense of proportion and blade shape alway stop me in my tracks. Thanks!!

Here are a couple of shots of a blade I finished last week. I'm such a dufus. I was thinking "I don't need to protect the blade while I do the finished edge" - - - so SCRATCH SCRATCH SCRATCH on the bluing... next time there will be lots of blue tape involved... Neal specified this shape - I...

I enjoy both. Symmetry is "stately" - asymmetry is dynamic... there's a place for each of 'em. I sure like your photos! Some folks put a lot of weight on the golden ratio (approx. 1:1.618) - which is kind of a symmetric fractal ratio - if that makes any sense - sort of a symmetry in...

After seeing a friend at the OKCA show with bandaged hand from the buffer flipping a blade (faster than the eye could see) - - - I tried this yesterday - love it - put some more mandrels on my shopping list so I can change grit quickly... THANKS!!

Release the Kraken! This may be my final note on this thread (unless there's discussion)... after a couple of hour+ soaks in soapy water some of the blocks have started to check/crack: Linseed - Cherry Salad Bowl Finish - Cherry Permalyn - Cherry Epoxy only (CPES) - Cherry Not the ones I...

Dan - so noted!

I'm no Master Smith - but have beat my head against the do-your-own-heat-treat wall a little myself. The only thing I'd add to Rob's note is: * don't let the blades soak in the oven too long - the grain size of the steel starts growing once you pass critical temp and you don't want that to get...