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I made mine the four legged type out of square tubing and anlge iron with a lower shelf for putting goodies. That's a KMG in front, and a Square Wheel behind it. The shelves are made of expanded steel so the grinding dust doesn't build up on them. They are pretty compact, and easy to move around.

LeeRoy, I found his web site: http://www.atar.com/old/

I'd call Jim Hrisoulas in Henderson. He's been at it for about 137 years (I said about).

Had a couple of 5 gal. sized boxes on my step when I got home toady. Thanks Bill, and thank you Kelly for carrying it. I hope it works out for you without becoming a P.I.A.. Bob

I have no problem reaching 2300 with my naturally aspirated forge. It's the lower temps for heat treating that I have trouble with. Bob

Looking at Indian Georges' forge now I have a question. Would adding a blower alow me to run at lower pressures, and have more control over the temperature? Bob

Chip Try the 3/4" holes, they might just work. If not just take a file to them. Having built the Ron Reil 3/4" burner for my first forge, I thought I'd build the Mini Mongo for the new forge since it is considerably larger. I changed it a bit by using a Tweeko .45 tip instead of drilling a...

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43072&p=48040

I have a 3/4hp Baldor buffer. When I change buffs I run the nut down only enough to spin the buff. That way if you press too hard it will stop the buff from spinning. It's not a grinder, it's a buffer.

1725 is fine. If you want it to be safe don't turn it on. If you do turn it on turn off the radio, turn off any noisy friends, and pay attention. You just turned on the most dangerous piece of equipment in your shop.

Look at all that wood dust. I'd have that place burned to the ground in 2 minutes. Bob

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