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To be honest I think we have all been there(atleast those of us who learn by their own mistakes cause we are too hard headed to heed the advice of others, lol). The last time I stepped up to my buffer it threw the knife I was working on(one of the first I have ever made, and it was my dad's)...

Just wanted to let you guys know, I have used since used the atp on some ats-34, and some 1080, the 1080 I had no scale at all to remove but it was slightly discolored, I was able to go straight to 220 and then to finishing the blades. The ats-34 was a little tougher, I think you need about 4...

That damascus is gorgeous...

I will also agree that 1080 is a great steel to get started with. I had great results with it using just a 2 brick forge and a propane torch when heat treating it, I still use it now even though I have an oven and 2x72 grinder, it and 01 are my choice for choppers and carbon blades.

Nice, great job!

I would use the insalwool if you can, I did not and the shell of my oven gets a little hot when I am running it for a while.

Sounds like residuals from the making process, was the blade ever cleaned thoroughly after you finished it? 100!

I will agree with the 4x36 model, IMHO it is useless for anything except handle material.

Check duralite HERE for your elements, they are really helpful folks and have already prewound the elements, just get the one rated for voltage and amperage. Also, they sell a single 220v element as well, I use the 4000 watt 220v element with mine. If you have any questions about the elements...

I use 1/8" stock for all of my neck knives... The only type of knife I use a thinner stock on are fillet knives.

LMAO "The Trunk Monkey"

It is extremely arrogant to believe the human race can affect the earth in such a way, things will come to pass as they are written...besides, Im with Boss, someone needs to hammer down the Buds, it'd be a shame for them to go to waste. While I agree we all need to be "greener" someone needs to...

+1 on the wet belts, this is a mistake I made for quite a few belts, not drying after dunking. This causes a LOT of bouncing especially in the 120 and up grits. I dont have much experience hollow grinding though.

For future projects, I suggest you get you a cheap pair of calipers and measure the thickness of your blade, then subtract anywhere from .020 to .050(depending on blade size) from that then divide the remaining number in half... set the caliper to this measurement and then rest one opening on...

Do not forget to put an inline 1 amp fuse on one of the hot legs going into that PID, you can use a standard fast blow glass fuse and fuse holder from radioshack, this will prevent any type of surge from burning up your PID. I will agree that a dual SSR and a door interrupt is much more safe...

That looks great, I may have to incorporate this into my system. I use 2 - 3/8" x 6"x8" steel plates and some c clamps, you are right...you need 3 hands.

I need to sell some knives, lol. I will have one of these, soon. Thanks for the info.. LOOK OUT TRED BARTA lol

that takedown feature is the beez kneez lol, I have wanted one of those for a long time for when I am hiking or in the woods, also would go great in a bug out bag. Thanks for the post. Right now I only shoot a compound, I want to go to a more traditional bow.

oh those are just absolutely sexy, I want one...

I thought I would add something I learned about drill presses, most of us use them in our shops a LOT and I want to reiterate the fact that they are by far one of the most dangerous tools in the shop in certain situations. In late Jan. this year I was working on a skinning knife and got in a...