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The Coote is a well built grinder for the money. However, it is not very versatile. It is what I have currently and would recommend the GIB or KMG basic if you can afford it.

My 2 cents for what it is worth. I purchased the Big Knife Kiln with the Orton Programmable controller about 5 months ago. I have annealed, treated and tempered L6 and CPM 154 with it. If you can afford it, get the programmable controller. It is easy to use and really handy to have programs in...

no way at that price!! Most sawmills will give the old blades away to anyone who will take them. I use this stuff a lot for kitchen paring knives and it is pretty tough stuff. You will have to experiment with heat treatment and remember it is high carbon and will stain and rust.

I would suggest you contact Ken Scharobak on anvilfire.com or Southern Ohio Forge and Anvil association in Troy (they have a website also). Check the anvil for rebound and cracks, if these are ok, I would try to acquire it. A decent anvil gets harder to come by every day.

Thanks Ed and Bossdog. I am going to give CPM 154 a try. I will send it out for heat treat until I get a kiln purchased.

so what, other than heat treat, are the drawbacks to stainless?

Thanks Ed, I have tried the Cru Forge V and found it pretty difficult to forge. I have not tried to use it doing stock removal because of the available sizes. I actually like the look of carbon steels, but it seems a shame to pretty it up with SS bolsters and stabilized scales only to have...

I would appreciate some advice. I am ready to make the jump from saw blade steel to a more controlled type. I have been making knives off and on for 3 years with most being stock removal. I primarily make kitchen and hunting knives. I intend to purchase a quality kiln in the next few...

I have started using bolsters and would like to drill my pin holes after I heat treat and have the bolster installed. The HSS bits don't cut it. I have my drill press at it's slowest speed and use cutting oil. Suggestions??

I work with bandsaw steel a lot. They will be very difficult to grind if you do not anneal them first.

what about the top of the stand? I was thinking of having an extra 8" around the forge for area to lay tongs.

I just received my new NC Tool Forge. I am going to build a stand for it. I could use some advise for height. I was thinking about elbow height. I am thinking of making a place for tongs and possibly an adjustable shelf for long stock. Any photos would be helpful.

count me in please!!

thanks for the help. I will say the grain structure sure looks good after I break the blade and start cursing.

I bought some to play with and cannot seem to anneal it properly. I heat to non-magnetic and place in vermiculite with hot railroad spikes and let it cool overnight. Tried to straighten the blades and broke (2) of them. They were very fine grained and hard. Any suggestions?

Denny, Thank you.

Good morning Denton, My name is Bryce Eller. I suspect we may be related as my ancestors came from Virginia thru Kentucky to Flora, Indiana. However, my reason for contacting you is that I am working on a makers mark for my knives and would not want to duplicate what you might be using. I...

Ken, Mere words will never express the sympathy I feel for you. May God be with you and your wife. Bryce Eller

Bossdog, I like the pin press. Why not use the Loktite 325 glue instead of JB Weld?

I am ready to try my first SS bolster. How much pin length do I need to fill the bevel in the hole? I think I read somewhere that 1/2 of the diameter. Also, do you guys glue it as well? It seems like I should glue it to insure no moisture creeps between the blade and bolster. Thanks!!