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I know a front load kiln would be much easier to deal with but, they seem to be far and few between in my area. Top load seem to be a dime a dozen here and I can pick one up for $100-200 in good condition. Is anyone here here using a top load for heat treat? Seems like it would be a bugger...

Either method should have about the same belt tension. If the motor is heavy you can design the hinge geometry too take weight off the belt.

Ed, how much distance do you have between the bottom of the long pipe and the bottom of the bucket? I'm going to be building one along with a new, lower, grinder bench I can sit at. Stupid bad back!

The weight of your spring will depend on how far from the pivot it's mounted. Just like a longer wrench will give you better torque because your hand is farther from the pivot. Compare that pivot/sprig distance to a few known designs and you should be able to get a good guess for a spring weight.

I heat treated a couple blades from O1 about 10-12 years ago and chalked up its spotty color to a bad process on my part. Fast forward about 12 years and I just cut out another blade from the same stock I had. This time as I got down to the finer grit belts I could start seeing a spotty...

Thanks guys. I didn't think of an etch test. I can put a drop of ferric chloride on them tomorrow to see if it sorts things out.

I have a few blades ready for heat treat I cut out and profiled over 10 years ago. I unfortunately can't remember which ones I cut from O1 and which are 154. Any easy way to tell? Also, any recommendations where I can send the 154 for heat treat? I'm just spooling back up to start building...