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Here are a few of the knives I made in the past. Thrush with Damascus blade, Timascus overlays, and sterling silver bail Hombre frame-lock with titanium frame and S30V blade Mini-Mohawk with BG42 blade, titanium frame, and titanium overlays Scimtac folder with BG42 blade, titanium frame...

Thank you, Sir! :)

Congratulations! :)

Thanks for the warm welcome, everyone! :) I was dealing with some serious health issues here at home. It kept me out of my shop for almost two years. Nice to be back making stuff. ;)

Thanks, everyone! hello there I've built a bunch of pens lately. People seem to like this one a lot. :) I also make them with the pure "tactical" look.

Glad it was helpful, Ron! :)

Thank you! :)

Reverse-polarity anodization: This is another technique using the same power supply and electrolyte, but using a paintbrush with a metal ferrule to “paint” the color on the part. The negative lead (cathode) is attached to the ferrule on the paintbrush and the positive lead (anode) is attached...

Here's the new tutorial on Anodizing Titanium: The process of anodizing titanium involves immersing the object to be colored in a container with a titanium cathode inserted and filled with an electrolyte. Passing a DC charge through the electrolyte solution will cause a microscopic oxide film...

Sure. :) It won't answer all the questions, but it should give folks a head start. ;)

I assemble everything using some light Teflon lubricant on the washers, swing the blade open and check for wobble, swing the blade closed and see if the detent still pulls the blade into the handle (like it should), and check for any gaps or irregularities. If everything checks out, all...

I like to pre-etch Damasteel to make sure I have all the scratches out of the surface before the blade goes to heat treat. Since this involves using ferric chloride, I mask off the washer area with some special adhesive acid resistant discs and put a dab of nail polish on the areas where the...

This photos shows the level of finish achieved on the grinder. Now, I hand finish the perimeter of the blade using dowels where necessary and progressively finer grits of paper. With that done, it's time to start the hand finishing of the flats. Since I use magnets to hold the blade...

28 volts DC should give us blue. Looks like it worked! Now it's time to turn our attention back to the blade. Every maker has his or her own preferred method of grinding. This is just how I do it. You can use your own method. First I use the Ultra Fine Sharpie and lay out the main grind on...

Disassemble the frame, and start drilling - combo drill, 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", countersink, deburr, and check the flatness. I've bead blasted the scale and polished the chamfers in preparation for anodizing. The pocket clip is also sanded in preparation for anodizing. Since the lock side...

Here, I'm starting to shape the edges of the frame with a slack belt. Front side done. Back side done. The pivot is also put back in place. I'm going to put some holes in the frame to dress things up a bit. Here, I'm using the familiar measure, mark with an Ultra Fine Sharpie, and...

Placing the pocket clip on the back of the knife, you can see there's going to be a bit of interference with the head of the pivot. (We'll take care of that shortly.) First, we'll take our Ultra Fine Sharpie and mark the forward hole location. Then, after mounting a 1/2" contact wheel on the...

Swinging the blade open and closed scribes the arc made by the detent ball. I centerpunch a mark just beyond the end of the line. And carefully drill the socket for the detent. Properly installed, the detent should actually pull the blade into the handle when it's near fully closed.

The area of the blade tang that will engage with the lock is blackend using a Sharpie marker. Then, it's put into the frame and the lock line is transferred using an X-Acto knife. I use a digital level to set the lock angle at about 5°. And SLOWLY start grinding the blade tang to fit...