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thanks mike928...so do i put the chromium oxide on the backside(rough side) of the leather? or on the canvas or what? then i would use the chromium, canvas then smooth leather?

hey guys! i have looked everywhere for an answer and have got absolutely ZERO consistency, so i will ask here... i have a strop with one full canvas strap and one heavy-duty leather strap (two sides each, naturally). right now they are just bare...do i use compound? if so what colors? which...

roger that...all of my blades are going to be full flat sharpened to a micro-convex...i keep trying to get that straight line across the spine until, viola! ...it vanishes and i have ground clear to the spine! :D I'll keep at it tho, like a true addict!

indeed, well done friend! i agree with the philosophy of freehanding and am doing it that way myself...i just cant get straight lines like that yet!

looks good! ...from one newb to another, how do you get that grind line at the spine so straight? are you using a jig?

ha! i'm using a ? weight, well-used 80 grit belt at full tilt (no speed adjustment) on my $60 harbor freight grinder! then sharpened by hand...maybe someday ill be able to afford a grizzly 1015...the ol' wilmont tag is a little out of my reach at this point :)

yeah, no laminates, this was 3/4" solid hardwood...i knocked the handle edges down a little more, way more comfy...its a little scary when you get that close to being finished, i didn't want to screw the handle up at the very end! :)

you know, i'm not sure what the wood is...my brother does hardwood flooring and i picked it out of the scrap-pile at his house...it's super hard and came out of some guys new million-dollar house so i figured hey, good enough for me! :) thank you all for your kind words!

hey guys! so i just finished my first knife and im pretty exited. i was worried about my heat-treat because of the before mentioned dilemma (link below)... http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?27206-heat-treating-1084 however it came out ok (i think) and the heat treat seems to have taken... i...

oops...i reposted this in the correct area...sorry

this is brilliant...so i will get a piece of round (so its easier to pick the blade out) mild steel pipe and scribe it to fit flush at the top and bottom at an angle from corner to corner (rear left bottom - top front right, for example) this should help with the rapid cooling upon opening the...

i was looking at the ones at Geargies ceramic shop in Portland, OR...they are local so it was easy to go put my hands on it and check it out..thanks doug

ok i get that...i dont have enough vertical space inside the kiln to put medium sized knife vertically... :(

thanks a bunch...saving my pennies for a pyrometer...seems to be around $100...as is, i have no way of maintaining any temp reference or consistency...i have been simply bringing up to temp and then attempting to quench

not quite following you...pics?

hey thanks Doug for your response! let me break this down. 1. i am putting the steel in beforehand and heating it up with the kiln to temp.(takes about an hour), between 1475*-1540* is close to 10 minutes 2. i am not saying you are wrong, I CANT WAIT TO GET A PYROMETER! but fwiw every source i...

hey guys...so i am making knives out of 1084 and attempting my own HT. What i have is an old kiln rated at 1650*, a quench in oil heated to 125* and a toaster oven for temper at 400*...here's my dilemma: pictured below is my kiln with a table inside... ...and this is a picture of what would...

No one is talking about saving money...the question was regarding the peening of pins and whether or not it is necessary to ensure a quality handle-material/knife-steel marriage...I asked the original question in an attempt to deduce whether or not simply using g-flex epoxy to adhere the scales...

that's a great idea I actually sell stainless hardware at my work! thank you!

great, that's what i've been doing...roughing up the steel, inside of the handle material and pins, then gluing with g-flex epoxy...i figure the pins alone will keep you from shearing a scale off, and they shouldn't just come loose, so why bother?