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I am looking for recommendations, if any, on prepping leather before dying it. I am using veg. tanned leather, with Fiebings dye. Is there a product or procedure that I should do before I dye. I just completed a sheath that after wet molding it and letting it dry, the leather remained spotty...

hey lyman what up? Good luck finding some AAA I have looked around without much luck. I did buy some McMaster-carr Quenching oil the 11 sec. and has worked great on the 5160,1075/1085 and 52100. those are to only steels I have worked with.....steve I am guessing you were at the abs school?

This is a good question and funny it just came up I had some round 52100 that I was wanting to try so I figured i would make a kitchen knife and let the family beat it up in the kitchen . The edge has held up quite well so far but veggies and high acid stuff is not very kind to the blade. I do...

great looking knife Art I bought some mobile 1 yesterday and have 2 knives to HT and then try the Mobile 1 out thanks for the info...steve

I have been using the 11 sec oil from Mcmaser-car and say I have been quite pleased although I haven't tried it on 1095 I have used 1084 and mostly 5160 and both have performed well on my knives. I was told it is boarder line in speed for 1095 but I don't know personally. I am trying some 52100...

great finish . how did you finish the blade before going into the tumbler? ....steve

welcome I am in Lincolnton NC. there a a few from NC here.Great place to be....steve

I have the coote grinder and am very happy with it. it is built very sturdy . I only flat grind so can't comment on the different height issue for hollow grind.for the money it cant be beat . All that being said I am fairly new at knife making .....steve

I am going to make some test knives and us the McMaster oil and see how much better it is . We did the same thing at the ABS school with our blade.So I was going to use the same test ,cut rope ,chop 2x4's and then bend 90 deg. I just haven't don it yet. The edge seems to hold up well on the one...

I did buy the 11 sec oil from Mcmaster and have used it on several blades so far seems to work just fine. I am using 5160 I do have some 52100 and some 1084 I assume the Mcmaster oil will work for the 1084 but not sure about the 52100? thanks for all the info....steve

thanks for the help. I need to buy some more compound any way this will be a good excuse. for a new knife maker this forum has been a great resource...Thanks..steve

thanks I will give it a try. I have some white compound I can use for the buffing just didn't know what was the best way to go . is the lemon oil for protection or dose it bring out the color as well? I didn't think there was to much to it just did not want to screw it up. I'm real good at...

I am making a knife with a stag handle on it. my question is what do you do or use to finish off the stag? This is the first time I have used stag I have always used micarta, dymondwood etc but no stag thank ...steve

thanks every little bit helps ...steve

never thought about it but makes sense. I am a new knife maker getting started in this so far hobbie biz so it would make sense to use my real name. just been using ksran2 on other stuff just seamed the thing to do. so Les George could you change my forum name to Steve Randall thank

thanks I knew there had to be a better ( easier ) way I will try that. ...steve

great looking knife the feather pattern looks fantastic. ..steve

I have used brass and nickel on knives I was just wandering about mild type steel . I saw a guy use a mild steel guard and place in a container with coal from wood, seal it and and place in a fire till red hot ,let cool 2 hr then remove and place in water. it had a very cool contrast. I was...

Both forged of 5160, top is dymondwood, bottom is micarta.

I was wondering how you finish the guard when using a mild steel/ wrought iron for material? do you hot blue , polish or what to help protect the steel and get the different color thanks ....steve