Search results

Thanks for the info. .......HUGE HELP!!

This one was forged from a Bellota rasp. The rasp was tested prior to annealing to ensure that it was worth my time. Made that mistake before!! Heated to non magnetic and quenched in preheated olive oil. Temper was two hours at 375F. The scales came from an old walnut tree. They were 12X1...

Doyle, Will Parks 50 work well across the carbon steel board? 5160, 1084, O-1 and so on?

I do get vapor bubbles. I will switch to canola and heat to the higher temp you suggested. I think I may order some parks 50 and give that a try too. I am flexible to change as long as it means I am doing things correctly and producing a quality tool. Hey thanks fellas.....much appreciated!

I use a "Wayne Goddard" forge, but I only forge under low light where I can really monitor the color while constantly checking with a magnet. The knives temper fine and all pass the rod test with flying colors. Maybe I am soaking for too long. Pic to follow.

Hello all, I am new to knife making but I have always noticed that 1095 will blister during the quenching process. I am curious as to why. Several other carbon steels and that I have worked with do not. I am careful not to overheat and my quenching media is an olive oil preheated to about 100...

You know, the Unigrinder setup (either belt or stone solid)is probably quite easily the most prominent grinder of choice everywhere except the US. One fantastic Scandinavian bladesmith by the name of John Neeman uses a solid stone unigrinder......and the work that leaves his shop is nothing...

As they say, success is a stale finale, it's the struggle that is the true success.

I am new to the forum as well and I love it. Welcome!!

Welcome from the great Sierra Nevada mountains, CA!! This is a great place to feed the addiction brother!!

How did you heat treat the file steel? As my handle implies, I am big into 18th century trade knives and the longhunter mentality. My eyes see a fantastic 21st century longhunter!!! BEAUTY!! Sweet!! Any plans for a sheath?

Wow! I can tell you, every once in a great while you find a maker with an eye that really catches your attention with a particular blade design or style. I am still a lowly O-1 stock reducer but I have learned that the blade makers eye for function and design really define what we are (or will...

Frills are overrated. I hate frills. You don't use frills. You put frills in the gun safe so it won't get a scratch. That my friend is an awesome little knife. That trailing point is a hunter's favorite! This hunter included! SWEET!!

Awesome! Welcome to the addiction bro. In the world of production knives there is such a massive difference in quality. Basically, you get what you pay for. Cheap knives generally equal poor performing steel. There are exceptions to that general rule though. Knives from Mora are awesome and...

Very nice!! When you are around knives and knife making for long enough, you just know when a blade would feel nice in the hand from a photo.....case in point. Very nice

Epoxy works fine but I have had better luck with a high strength wood glue with stacked leather. Gorilla works great but hey that looks nice. I would certainly be pleased with that if you put it in my hands....SEMPER FI!!

That is a beauty. Has the qualities of a good fighter also. I love using copper on my knives, not for what it looks like right off the bench but what it will look like as it tarnishes or ages. Really gives off character.

Hey all! New to this forum but I figured I'd post a few longhunters I recently made. Rasp steel can be tricky because a lot of them are case hardened but these guys heat treated nicely. Behaved a lot like 1095.

I have a gotten a few freebies myself from a deconstructed fireplace. They work just fine. I assume the foundry brick are rated for higher temps. Slow heat your forge and do not let them get wet or sit out in the rain. If it did sit outside in the weather, through it in the garage for a week or...