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I guess I'm not sure what you're referring to. On anything that's not a symmetrical shape, I eyeball it.

Just noticed the CRC...those are my initials :)

I find that basket weave stamping looks better when done on an angle vs horizontal/vertical. It's easier on the eyes and just seems to flow better. Laying down the starting line involves simply dividing the stamped area equally with an angled line and then starting on it working each side till...

Not a bad looking sheath. Here are my views: First thing that screams at me is the edge! I can't tell if the shiny spots I'm seeing are an attempt at burnishing or glue or? The edge needs to be sanded (by hand or power) till it is all smooth and uniform. Then burnished properly. As you...

Just found these, any opinion? http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mallets-24-oz-/D2807

This sheath is MUCH better than those with the inlays in the previous post.

Man I gotta get something different. I've been using just your plain, simple lightweight wooden mallet they have in the leather section at Hobby Lobby. Takes me SEVERAL good whacks to get the depth I'm looking for...upside is that I can make some very light marks when doing accents. I've...

While I commend you for being vigilant and trying new things as well as doing a BUNCH of work :thumbup: I have to be honest when I say that I do not like the dye jobs as they sit in their current state. Now, once they are finished with a knife that compliments their style, my opinion may...

Nothing wrong with snaps in the right instances, I also think that a post wouldn't look right in this case. Quick suggestion: I would start lining the inside of your straps after you set your snaps. Or, get some of those nylon buttons that connect into the snap to keep the metal from rubbing...

First, what type of wax did you use? Not all waxes are created equal and most have no place on leather.

I think the glossy acrylic coatings like super sheen have their place, but I don't care for them much on EDC working sheaths. Depending on the dye you use, it can leave the leather with a hard, dried out feeling...this is the case with the Fiebing Pro dyes. A light coat of NFO will rejuvinate...

Fabulous work! Would it be possible to post some closer shots of each one?

Thanks Mike! I'm glad you like it!

Mike, you can smooth and burnish the flesh side quite nicely so it's not all fuzzy and frizzy. Agreed, it's not as pretty as the top side, but it can be made to look a bit better :).

The sewed on belt loop, IMO, is superior to the 1-piece sheath in that if anything ever happens to the belt loop, you can simply pull the stitching and apply a new one. With a 1-piece, if you cut or damage the belt loop...you're pretty much screwed. That, and it looks more professional to me...

LOVE that stamping pattern! Has the tooling been antiqued or just oiled?

Yes, lightly dampening the leather will allow the pores to open and deeper penetration of the dye. However, the final color (if using a color other than black), will be darker than dry dying. You can also do a light wipe with neat's foot oil prior to dying for the same effect. Also, for a...

Brian, Paul uses predyed, high quality leather from Wickett & Craig. The drum dying process that they use produces an extremely nice dye job that is very consistent in color. Ideally, the best way to go. The finish after dying can make or break the job and there are quite a few to choose...

Yes, chrome tanned leather will ruin a carbon steel blade in a hurry. Veg tanned or oil tanned won't have that greyish center. Ok to practice with, but that's about all. Here is a list of a few links to sheath tutorials that I have bookmarked...

Not sure how caustic ferric chloride is (haven't used any yet)....but if it burns your skin, it will most likely be too harmful for the leather.