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Stainless works great as a cathode. I use some stainless shim stock, and that very supply from MPJA with great success.

No special tool required, just a larger diameter drill... Run it through all the pieces already bolted together...

I'm a nut, so I built a bar to go on the drive shaft, and measured everything from it. But, I had the material... I bored a hole in one end of the bar that was a nice, push fit on the shaft, and was perpendicular to the bar itself. A hole in the back end of a spare tooling arm would work for...

Absolutely true. Now how do you KNOW when you hit that, without testing, is what I'm looking for. Or, what different test is there? Sure, we can take the knife out, and put it through it's paces, but I want to sell knives. I can't go beating them all up... We have to have a reliable test...

Let's go a slightly different route here. I fear I'm coming off as an A$$. What other testing should I be doing to verify my results out of HT? I am a trust nothing, verify everything kind of guy.

I must be missing something... Each steel and geometry will have a best specific heat treat for the task the knife is designed for, which is what I believe you are saying. I agree. Which in my mind, and in my shop, means I'm looking for a specific working hardness when I run through a cycle...

Standards are $32 at Enco.

And without testing, you'll never know if you hit it or not...

To really know, you gotta have a tester. Look for the Aames handheld testers, it's harder to find a deal on them now that knifemakers have discovered them, but not unheard of... Rebound testers suck for thin items like knives, and files only ballpark it for you. If you want to actually KNOW...

Travis' grinder is the best in the business IMHO It has it's quirks, as everything does, but it still just beats everything. It's the most flexible thing out there, tracks better than anything I have seen, and runs Smooooth and quiet. I haven't actually done the math, but is it really pricier...

FSCMAR good on $25 til the end of April.

In this day and age, HSS is all but obsolete. Cobalt is far superior. I only by HSS drills in the larger sizes, and if I'll drill Ti with it, I spring for a cobalt.

Sounds like a good plan, cobalt is worth the $$$, more forgiving on feeds and speeds. Feed is important here, get in there and cut. If you dwell, or rub, cutters die a quick death. You actually want a decent chipload per tooth.

What are you doing to address the thickness at the splice issue?

I'm running a 90 duro wheel, so pretty hard... I'd use the BunaN myself Josh, but that's what I have used in other applications. We used Lovejoys a lot for power transmission in the oilfields, and the rubber takes up a lot of vibration.

I'm frugal, I'm lazy, and my table is small. There's my reasons for using 1" !!! Frugal, I get 2 belts for the price of 1. Lazy, with a 1" belt there's just that many fewer times I have to cross feed the Y axis. (You don't just plunge straight down on the full blade width, you run the machine...

Mine is 1hp.

I'm actually discovering that I don't like the wheel being wider than the belt. Mine is wider, but it's because it is a 2" wheel for 2" belts, and I split them and run 1" belts. I don't like it being wider because the belt edges are wearing little grooves in it, and I'll have to re-dress it...

I would suggest starting by NOT using it in the aforementioned manner. Unless that helps you sleep...

Vicious toilet seat with a sphincter reamer????