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Look at waterjet as a time and material saving bandsaw. You never get a finished edge from the bandsaw, and you shouldn't from the waterjet either.

Glad to see someone finally gave this tensioning system a try! I'll bet it works well.

I'm with the OP here, I like SLOW speed for reaming, countersinking, counterboring, etc...

Replace most of Eds "amps" with "Volts" Great idea on the color chart technique Ed. I made a bunch of coupons, but this is better!

Very cool! Though from experience, you'll find it more useful if you make it 3 wheel, instead of 4 wheel!

Yessir.

That's where working horizontally helps, fluidity of motion. It's easier to move smoothly side to side than up and down. Being able to see what you are doing doesn't hurt either! I worked for years with a similar rig to yours, with care, and practice, it all comes together. Set it up to use...

For what it is worth Ed, the TUS stencils are just about bomb proof. Buy the gold ones. I used to throw them away after marking a batch, but just because I didn't want to deal with them curling and stuff. If I remember right, $35ish to create the master, and $15 or so per sheet after that. I'd...

Yeah, for your own makers mark, buy the spendy ones, for one offs, a better deal is a better deal. And longevity is not an issue....

I'm guessing that maybe Ernie uses the blue stuff that you can buy and make your own stencils with? That stuff cracks and spider webs so much.... My first big leap in mark quality was going to pro-grade stencils. The second was using this technique. I once got over 100 marks with one stencil...

Ex-9B was the stuff. I tried 4 or 5 different kinds, and it worked best for me.

On second thought, I'll bet Tracy sells this stuff, buy it from him!

I never could get a decent mark with a Q-Tip. It's SO easy to make a pad out of a brush, I don't know why anyone wouldn't! In a bind, OK. If you know you are going to etch something again, someday, make a good one! TUS sells some great felt, it's almost free. I forget what I paid, but I'm sure...

Ed, just use motor brushes. You can find them via a ton of sources, even eBay. Get the ones that have a wire already embedded in them. Something like this for example...

Somebody bent an inch and a quarter aluminum bar bar dropping it? Was it from an airplane? I could see it getting beat up, and requiring a file, but damn, it bent?

The surest way to eliminate tapping issues in pretty much everything we do is two fold. Use forming taps, with the appropriate drill. Use a Tapmatic. I have done over 3000 holes, with 1 single 2-56 tap. That Tapmatic paid for itself in broken taps, just on that one single tap. Nevermind the...

Same machine, different attachments, and yes, that is a surface grinding attachment. That attachment is SLICK!

Yes sir. I know other use different numbers, or have work arounds for the detent issue though. Flattening the ball, cutting relief in the liner/bolster, etc... to allow for enough of the ball to protrude and actually function as a detent and not bind. My method is a .020" spacing, and press the...

If you want to use bearings, size your material to suit. For me personally, I would want at least 1/16" liners, and counterbore the liners for .020" gap. .020" seems to be the magic number for me. Anything less doesn't leave enough detent sticking out for my taste, or requires relief cut in...

I too just use mild steel. I have flat ground a couple thousand blades on it, and have dressed it twice in all these years!