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Nowhere. You don't really expect a guy selling grinders to produce a drawing so folks can knock him off, do you?

I use an optical center punch to spot the holes.

Do it on purpose. Do not try and get the holes to actually line up on center. .005 - .010" misalignment is likely in your benefit. In open position, you want to be hitting your stop pin before the ball drops all the way in the hole. Same in the closed position.

If a guy has something worthy of a trade, he can sell it. Then trade me for cash!

I can middle man for you, if you need one. You are probably looking at $70 - $80 by the time it gets shipped to Israel, depending on your shipping choice. It's $52 to my door, plus shipping to you.

And I pay BIG bucks for that tubing Ed. BIG bucks... Buy a new truck, or a batch of tubing kind of money...

Tubing is neither round, nor precise!

Contact Rubber makes a better wheel than Sunray. I love Sunray, and use them to make all of the wheels for my Übergrinder, but I have Contact rubber make them for the surface grinders... I have done 4 or 5 now, and they make a NICE, balanced wheel...

Extensive testing lead me to 16v as ideal for my methods, and etching solutions. 15 VDC will not give you a black mark though...

Schematic

I am confused about what you are after. You have mentioned 4.5 degrees, AND hollow grinding. 4.5* is pretty typical on a flat grind, but there you actually have an angle. The relative angle between the center plane of your blade, and the bevel. There is no such thing in a hollow grind. That...

Belts do make a huge difference. It seems blasphemous to use belts on a surface grinder, and the old old Krauts I apprenticed under would give me a proper flogging for doing it, but it works. And works WELL.

Jan (Yawn) at TUS Tech is great...

If you have a platform on the front to stand on when grinding, it won't move around on you.

I vary from the count a bit here when I help people set them up. Not sure why, but speed seems to be our friend with these things. 500 -700 RPM works great on everything from #0 - #6 in everything from Al to Ti. Mine is at 550 RPM or so, and I never change it. #2 and below can actually be run...

Sure, bolsters with hidden screws, or scales with hidden screws, or screws that only show from one side of the knife. http://fellhoelter.com/galleries/blade-show-2012/

Oh, you'll be surprised how quickly you decide you need to tap blind holes...

I bought the TC/DC originally for doing blind holes. It doesn't work for that. Well, the depth control part doesn't. None of our holes in knife parts are deep enough for that feature, so you have to control it with the clutch. I don't know what the minimum thread depth is for depth control...

Turn your knife 90* You want the belt running the length of the knife.

Any of the "30" models work well. I have a TC/DC and a RX30