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you can get it from Haughton. It's super expensive to ship though. I got a pail of Maxim DT-48 from canadian knifemaker, but they don't sell it anymore, due to the shipping restrictions.

I put the first knives in when the oven stabilizes. You risk overheating the tip and edges as the elements overshoot the temp to heat the oven. After the knives are in, I wait until the temp equilizes, then start the soak timing. I just programmed the oven to hold temp for an hour, and I just...

i consistently get Rc64 with those temps. I use that for my kitchen knives in W2. For hunters skinners, I temper at 450, and get Rc62 to 63. I haven't had one chip yet. Great steel.

If you want to know for sure, try 1550-1600f, then quench in brine. If it has 0.5% carbon or a bit more, you will get the max out of it that way, but you risk cracking it. Hypo euctoids need more heat and a faster quench than euctoids, or hypereuctoids.

I've done four with one heat, but prefer only two now. The 1/2 second to get past the nose starts when the blade drops below 1400f. When Austentizing at 1460f, the oven stays quite close to that temp as I pull one knife out and quench. I found doing more than two, I risked overshooting temp as...

That just doesn't look right. Try a thin layer with the edge clear, or no more than a light wash of thinned clay on the edge. There should be a slightly thicker layer along the bevels, with the edge of the thick part where you want the line to be. 1/8" max is all you need.

Keep using it. Its fine.

Here's what I do. Its what works for me, and you will find what works for you may be different, as it is for each smith. I rough grind the knife. I get the edge to about 0.040", and have the blade evenly sanded to 120g. The clay doesn't pop off too early for me when I stay at 120g. It was hit...

I agree with what everyone has said so far. I would like to add that the Hitachi White makes a really dramatic Hamon too, if you can get it. Its quite high in carbon, but is very pure and has the lowest manganese of any carbon steel currently on the market (at least that I know about.) 1095 is...

I got Rc68 consistently with 1460 in my shop. I was following the lead of Don Hansen III, who was using 1450. After speaking with Kevin Cashen at a hammer in, I learned the value of experimenting in 10f increments, and found 1460 was the sweet spot in my shop with the Maxim oil. Since I...

The oven can overshoot the desired temp while its heating then equalizing.

Check welding supply stores, and meat department for the dry ice. Party shops may have it too.

Rob from Canadian Knifemaker explained the double foil technique. In the first layer, pit a pinhole in the envelope by the handle. In the second foil package, put a pinhole in the opposite corner. This allows just enough airflow to prevent balooning, but not enough to cause decarb. I've done the...

For the sub zero, many welding shops, or meat departments sell the dry ice. Mix it with acetone into a slurry. Wear gloves, and take precautions. It will burn you badly. Keep the area ventilated, as CO2 can kill you, but it's a small risk in this application. I'm not trying to be alarmist. Just...

Take stainless down to pretty much finished dimensions. There is minimal decarb because of the foil protection. I don't say no decarb, because there is a tiny amount of oxygen from the pinholes that prevent the foil from ballooning. I use two foil packets, each with one pinhole in opposite...

I think the problem is that cleaning the blade is only one variable. What else has been in the oven, and will it react with the steel? What alloying elements might skew results, if at all? Is it the same soap, or solvent? Dis you use a rag to wipe, and how do we know what trace elements might be...

Tempering by color is unreliable.

Try a series of coupons, with austentizing at 1470, 1480, 1490, 1500, 1510, and see which gets the highest Rc out of quench. That would be the number I use. Its simple to figure out tempering from there. I would suspect Rc67, and possibly 68 is possible with this steel. I got 67 with Hitachi...

I do most of my grinding post heat treat on thin stock, which I use for kitchen knives mostly. I do use 3/32" for skinners, and as long as I leave the edge 0.020 or thicker, I don't have much trouble with warp on knives under 6" long. You can correct most warp right out of quench, when the steel...

i have the DT 48, because I found it semi locally in Alberta here. I searched for months, and cross border shipping is a pain in the ass. I haven't had any trouble with it, other than it doesn't work at 45 deg f in the Canadian winter when the heat cropped out in the shop.