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Sorry if I spoke out of turn, I have just seen that go the wrong way too many times to not say something. I hope you and he can work someting out with the knife.

It sounds like he is willing to do something about it without asking for money, if so then I would give him the chance to make good on it. Just as an aside and purely a suggestion, I would not continue posting his, or your, emails on the forum. The beginning of his reply actually seems to...

I like to finish to 400 before blasting, this is partly because I have found that the finish prior to blasting can affect how fast it will rust, and partly because I like to use very fine media, essentially for the same reason.The media I use will not cover scratches much coarser than 220 or 320...

Welcome Michele! You have rubbed elbows with some big names. I was reading Jim's book (if we are talking about the same) 20 years ago and I still enjoy seeing him post on one of the knife forums occasionally, although I think he likes to keep a low profile and I don't call attention when I see...

Welcome Frank!

The same manufacturer (Evenheat) makes ovens designed for knifemaking, I would look into those. Tracy at USA Knifemaker sells them.

Looking good, Pedro! The rust might just be flash rust from your slack tub/dip container. A dash of baking soda and a few drops of dish detergent will keep the flash rust down and make the particles in the water sink to the bottom so the blade comes out clean when you cool it.

I would rather make another one or buy it back from you than leave it in circulation like that with my name on it. I'm not for bad-mouthing another maker so I won't offer more than that. Whether he would be willing to fix it is hard to guess if he feels it is normal.

Nice Job! I never did paint mine and would be scadalized if anyone saw a pic of it, but it gets a lot of work done for me. You need to get that thing dirty!

Very impressive for your first! Unfortunately now you have to out-do it with your second!

The hardening quench usually causes most of the black scale to fall off the blade. This leaves a texture from the decarb and the formation of scale but if you want the black you will probably have to patina the steel to get it. Mustard and potatoes also both give a dark blue-ish black patina, in...

Thanks guys! Didn't take long to find this one a home:3:

People buy things to suit a need, or to suit a taste, or to suit both at the same time. The things that people are passionate about, or that bring enjoyment to their lives, they tend to spend more money on than would strictly be necessary, when they have the money to spend. This is the American...

That looks really nice! Unfortunately my wife always loses knives that I make for her...

This is a powerful little chopper made from .360" 5160. 11" overall, 6" long x 1-7/8" wide blade. I'm not usually a fan of tanto-style points but it offers a nice prying implement and a corner that will bite deep when chopping. Tang tapers to @ .150". Good for downing small trees, splitting...

During the rough stages you can use a half-round file and draw file the ripples/ lumpy spots down. During finishing I use different sized rubber drums mounted on 1/2" dowel rod, with sandpaper wrapped around it, and chuck this in my cordless drill. For the really stubborn ones I just use a stick...

Looks good! Happy with your designs or not, you are doing a perfectly respectable job turning them out in steel.

I have to remind myself sometimes to keep my mind in the hand that is holding the tang, I have a tendency to want to grind aggressively and without realizing it I will start increasing the pressure I am applying with my off hand over the belt itself, and end up paying more attention to that hand...

I use a carbide grit rod saw and cut them after HT. The rod saw is availible from home improvement stores and is for cutting ceramic tile and such. It fits in a hacksaw frame and works well on hardened steel but leaves a coarse finish in the cut which I clean up with a small diamond file.

The tension spring on my GIB came from the door hardware section of a home improvement store. It is basically a heavy self-closure spring for a screen or storm door. The spring on my Coote is much smaller and is a compression rather than a tension spring. There are lots of possible...