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While I was doing it, I realized I set up for pics before I even sharpened them....here's the actually finished versions. ...aaannnd, my oven when out. The kydex will be a minute as will anything else you could possibly use an oven for.

after a good soak in some oil, the Dewcarta has now turned a deep red, almost blood red. it looks really good. I might get some more pics as I'm working on the sheath and the final touches.

Here's a few more pics of the finished other knife as well. Btw guys, I just celebrated my 1 year anniversary of knife making! This really only gets more fun...

Survival/tactical knives, 3/16" 1095, 5 inch cutting edge. starting from the top to the bottom, this was the first time I've cut a false edge. I think they turned out pretty good. The curved blade knife I actually screwed up and went over the edge of the stoping point and had to fix it, you...

does Renaissance wax dry to be food safe? I called the Briwax people and they say it does....just wonder about other products? Edit: That's what I use is Briwax....I leave my 1095 edc blade in a leather sheath 24/7. With a good patina and then a good wax every so often or after hard use...

cool

Thanks Dewey! I've already got a buyer for the knife I'm gonna make with them.

here's the pics Dewey... I can see the ends that I need to remove that are only the epoxy/resin, about 1/8 off each end needs to be removed. It leaves just enough room for the tang if I'm careful. I don't know though, i'm kinda thinking about going a different direction with this one...

Sure thing, I'll get a pic and post it up later today/tonight. As I said, I didn't think much of it and didn't even measure it or compare it to the tang. I just assumed I would sand past it in final shaping, and I still might. I just figured I would get your opinion first. Give me a few...

looks good Justin. What screws/pivots/pins did you go with?

Hey Dewey, From what you've described I might have a similar issue. I just wanted to see what you think before I attempt to epoxy them up next weekend.... One of the ends on both scales seem to be chipped up pretty good and I can see where there is some material missing (pocket) on the...

Thanks for the help, I think this gets me on track!

Right now I'm thinking that I should probably keep it simple with 3/16 (http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-knife-parts-c-30/pivots-and-stand-offs/pivot-barrel-3-16-x-3-8-for-folders.html#.U8mP8EDDWvR ) pivot barrel and screws for the pivot and then use the same thing but the 1/8 size for the...

Thanks guys for the help, I think I was over thinking it a little. I figured I could always shorten screws to fit, I just wanted to ask some opinions. so what works better and is there a reason for it? pivot barrels or chain ring bolts or what, is there a reason to use different types of...

So i've been thinking of doing my first friction folder and I've come to a point that I don't know exactly how to figure out....I've not yet actually done any work at this point, just research and trying to make everything work in my head first so I know what to order. So here's where I'm at...

like this :les: And in reality what happens is that if you always keep the very edge of what will be the cutting edge off of the belt by a hair, you'll always cut at the top of the what will be the primary until you get it flat with where you end the grind. I might be doing it wrong myself...

Hi remist17. I'm going to follow this because I've really wanted to attempt a folder as well and I've probably got a few of the same concerns. I might start another thread about it later, but my biggest concern from my research is how to line everything up...or more so, looking at the options...

that's very pretty, wow

For flat and scandi: I eyeball it, not very scientifically at all...if it's possible to scientifically eyeball something. My first cuts are at a 45ish degree angle scandi grind (for flat grind also i start with this). I take it down to the center at about a dimes width. I do this evenly on...

It worked really well to seal it. But I'm not sure that it changed the color. With the first coat, before I sanded it, the wood looked like I had simply dunked it in oil, shiny and bright and made the grain kinda pop. As I sanded down, reapplied sanded down and used the steel wool on it to...