Search results

I've got a relatively simple request: how about a tutorial about making irregularly shaped micarta handles symmetrical, mine always turn out a bit lopsided and I would like to see how people who do it regularly get it done.

here is the second kso made with that last run of micarta, its makes for an interesting color that's for sure.

Alright, its about time to wrap up my experimenting now, I've found a setup that will work wonders every time. This last slab turned out interesting, what started as an olive colored fabric, when mixed with the brown fiberglass resin, turned into a black color, which when sanded gets a green...

Well got my 4th block rigged up now, starting to get more fluid at this Wound up forty layers of the green cloth, the thinner material was harder to work with, it would move whenever I touched it. Probably going to be really thin, but Ill I'm going to go for a pin construction so it won't...

Its a ton of fun, its a great for working on other parts of knife making while I wait for my burners edit: Also I just found out I live two streets over from Jim Burke, so that should also help some.

Well I just got me a 1x30 harbor freight grinder, soon as I got home I got strait to work. Using the second micarta slab I made, a piece of scrap metal, and some standard nuts and bolts and drill bits, I set to making KSO#2 few things learned: my drill press is very imprecise, I need step...

Try bringing it inside and putting some more pressure on it, If you wanted you could even drop it in a cooler with some heat packs if its too cold inside and out.

Ah that sounds like a tutorial I would like to watch

The only problem I can see is I got a shop at the bottom of a hill, have to go through our studio/garage, 3 doors and a flight of stairs to get from forge to oven.

The question I have: what options are available to someone who does not wish to spend 500+ on a heat treat oven just yet? Will a $20 toaster oven work for tempering medium carbon steel blades(1045), or is there a technique you can use with the forge to do it? Thanks for any input T. Hunter...

I would say move to mississippi, but anyone who hasn't lived here their whole life would despise the weather patterns, 30 degree temp swings are not outside of possibility.

ah, so a different surfactant wont mess up the alchemy, thanks

so the base formula for Superquench is 5 gallons water, 5 pounds table salt, 32 oz dawn, 8 oz shaklee basic. I see everything here as being easy to find on the shelves at walmart but shaklee(I have yet to look at our local one) is there anything else that can substitute for the shaklee?

well, basically what it does is give you a hammer with a larger face so you don't have as many dimples and ridges on the work, so if you want to use it to make smoother flats it'll probably be nice if your doing allot of forging and want to skip out on allot of grinding

Ill see about making some super quench when I go about hardening, are there any recommended temps for 1045 as far as the harden, or just plain non-magnetic? If I mess up the temper I suppose I could redo it, it'll help with my blacksmithing skills either way. I'll probably get something like...

Could you get a workable mechete or other chopper like an axe out of the 1045 with the super quench? I see anything being made out of it being very tough but not holding an edge very well at all, which could be useful for making a chopper you could sharpen with a file or simple stone in the field.

1045 heat treating Local steel supply company has 1045 in 2" round stock that I could use for forging some tools(hammers, hardy tools, hot cutting tools). most of the time when people start listing out the simple carbon steels they end em on the low end around 1050, so does 1045 have enough...

Once I get this bronchitis knocked out Ill get to work on the anvil, I can find everything yall suggested in our shop but the grinder, thing died a couple months back. I may try to forge some steel into the chips and weld it there. I was about to just go ahead and flat file the thing, but that'd...

Mike Carter has done it with wax paper, but I would recommend using some kind of cut up trash bag, something like hefty that you can rip off the scale without it tearing. Haven't been able to do any shop work, managed to catch a nasty bug wich has taken me from strep to bronchitis over a weeks...

as you can see its kinda rusty and has a couple of gigantic "chips" near the hardy hole, which I have no earthly idea how they could have been made. Anyone know of a good way to knock off all the rust and get it back to a polished finish, and what I could do about the chips?