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Yes. It's possible to get reasonably decent results with 1084 by simply heating it to non-magnetic and quenching, because it's not much more than iron and carbon. Other steels with more alloying elements in them require more precise temps and longer soaks at those temps, plus a more specific...

Happy Father's Day to all of you, and all your Fathers as well :) Where would we be without them?

Congratulations Dave! Glad to hear mom and baby are doing well. Say goodbye to sleeping through the night for a while :sad::biggrin:

Funny how "rescued" pets seem to adopt you, not the other way around. 5/6 of our critters are rescues and loyal as can be, the other one is Slippy's first-born and he's just plain spoiled... lovey to the point of being almost annoying, though :biggrin: That rascally duck doesn't stand a...

I would like to offer my services to broker a dealership agreement between BossDog and Fred... I'll happily accept payment in the form of puppy-treats and beer :)

Looks to me like you've tackled a lot of the basics and some advanced techinques as well. Get some proper cutlery steel and keep working! :)

Miss Slippy, my Shop Kitty/Familiar. She's in charge of pest control, keeping away evil spirits and the complaint dept.

Congratulations, Fred. We're proud of you :)

*nom nom nom* yummy!

Mine was mild low-carbon "welding" steel, ground with a dremel tool, heated up in a charcoal grill and quenched in olive oil :biggrin: I threw it away years ago, I was so embarassed. :steve::shush: That's a really good point. I'd say finish it up, at least grind it to the shape/bevel you...

We have dogs too but they're too goofy to be in the shop, they prefer to play outside. Slippy the Shop Kitty watches over me and keeps the mice and snakes under control. She likes to perch on my shoulder and watch me work... I wonder if I can get a little bitty respirator in her size?

I get the 3M stuff at Menard's. Maybe try NAPA or another place that caters to car repair/autobody work etc. "Wet" just means keep the paper a little wet. You can use water, windex, or lightweight motor oil (synthetic Mobil 1 is my favorite). The idea of wet-sanding is to keep the paper from...

No. Well, not unless you own a foundry or steel mill :D Get you a piece of 440C if you like stainless, it's inexpensive and makes good blades. Or spend a bit more and get CPM-154, it makes excellent blades. Either will require a well-controlled kiln to HT, or you can send it to TKS or Peters'...

304 doesn't have enough carbon to be hardened. It's pretty much just iron and chrome. It's good for guards and fittings, basically useless for blades.

220 will work fine. As long as you don't have nasty deep scratches showing frmo rough-shaping, it's entirely up to you.

I hog with 50 or 60 grit Gators or similar "ceramic" belts. Save old belts for profiling, use fresh ones for beveling. I get things clean and flat with 160 zirc or ceramic, then jump to 400 Gators pre-HT to make hand-sanding easier later. I get my 2x42 belts from Trugrit, they have a nice...

You can progress like you normaly would on hardened blade steel, it will just go faster. The most important step is to get all your grinding marks out at the 400-grit stage, making sure your surfaces are smooth and clean. Then step through your grits like 400, 600, 800, 1000 with 3M wet/dry...

Yay beer!

I go up to 400 grit but don't buff. G10 is weird, when it gets wet it's actually grippier. I'm not sure how that works but it's cool.

I didn't get the memo :( Try again :biggrin: