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Getting closer. Got my knives ground and my oven should be here next week.

Strider SMF.

Hi Fred. Thanks for the kind reply. I'm just getting into this and it's all pretty much new to me. Living in small town Saskatchewan leaves me with limited opportunities to purchase specific things like Parks 50. Is there an alternative that you could suggest? I will be grinding the bevels prior...

Thanks for the replys. I used up my W2 making these and will move on to stainless when I am finished the last one. How do I figure out a 10% brine solution? Math was not my best subject. Do you clean them with acetone or something similar before the heat treat?

I bought W2 for my first batch of blades and have an oven on the way. To heat treat it in an oven do I get the oven up to 1450 or so, put the knives in for 5-10 minutes and then quench in water? I'm guessing you don't use foil wrap with a water quench steel. If I want to try a hamon do I just do...

Don't feel too bad. I have some good equipment here and W2 steel and am stalling because of the fear of screwing up. When I decided I was going to get into this I knew I would wreck some knives as part of the learning curve and I realize that it is OK to screw up. It's not in my nature to enjoy...

I've done a few cutting tests with different steels and the Sebenza 25 with S35VN (15DPS) did very well. I think they are in the 58-59 range. I can't wait to do a test with S35VN at 60-61.

I made an adjustable one also.

Thanks for the replys. I was thinking 60-61. Why does Crucible suggest 58-59?

I have a piece of S35VN that I will eventually be getting to and was wondering what was a good hardness to aim for with a hunting knife. I have access to dry ice, but not LN. Thanks in advance.

I'll be venturing into stainless steels in the next couple of weeks and was wondering if AEB-L would make a good hunting knife or if I should be looking at something else. Initially I will be trying some of the thinner stock for paring knives.

For consistency and repeatability a jig would probably be a good idea. At least initially.

I went with a squirrel cage, duct work and a furnace filter. I was on the local fire dept for 6 years and am not particularly worried about sparks and dust. The air flow in mine has two 90 degree turns to negotiate to get to the exhaust and there is no grain dust in my garage that I would have...

Thanks. I may have to order one of those tumblers. I was looking into black oxide for blade coating but Caswells said it is not FDA approved. I'm working with W2 and don't want to sell a knife or two and get a bad rep because I used cheap steel and the blade rusted or some such nonsense. A lot...

Definitely a nice look to your knives. A couple of questions...is the cold bluing considered food safe (or does it really matter)? What is the longest blade that your tumbler could do? I'm going to be doing some knives in the 10"-11" range and like the stonewashed look.

Nice looking knives. Does the acid etching help to keep the rust down? I just started making knives and am working with W2.

Thanks. I got my dust collector up and running today. I'm no carpenter so it's not very square but it seems to work. How I ran the inlet and outlet. The open part is towards the wall of the pail. How it looks.

I've always wanted to start making knives and though that it would be a good retirement hobbie. I got to thinking that I will be wasting a lot of years waiting to start so I made a file jig based on a video by Aaron Gough. I started out with a small kiridashi styled knife. I couldn't see...

Excellent design and video. Thanks for the post.