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Yep, the laser doesn't really know the difference between maker's mark and the deer head. Here's a maker's mark I normally use for kitchen knives. The laser is set at 200mm/m at 100% power with 1 pass.

That's much how I do it for cutting leather for sheaths and stuff. For an image on a blade set LightBurn as shown in image with "Start From" set to "Current POsition". The "job origin" is "top center", or where I wish to locate the start point. Then put the blade on the laser working area...

Chris has got the screen shot I was planning for later tonight so no reason for me to post - thank you Chris. I see Chris has 4 passes, I normally use 1 pass with 100 mm/m, and it still seems to do almost as well. Chris, coloring with a sharpie does about the same thing as I sometimes do with...

Working on supper now - I'll try to get to shop and do that tonight. Computer in house doesn't have the Lightburn software installed. What software are you using with your laser?

That mill scale might be causing the problem. When you say "40 speed" do you mean mm/min or inch/min? I tend to measure speed in mm/min and use around 100 to 200 mm/min depending on my mood at the time. I've always had the blade sanding to at least 400, most of time 800 grit. I agree with...

Spalted maple is great, but I've had some really nice spalted oak and beech. Spalting makes plain grain wood look good.

That's impressive

Chris: You got a project ahead of you. I admire you saving those old photos. Seems like too many folks these days don't value the old stuff.

Not often at all have I used solely CA glue for a finish. I'll usually follow up with Tru-Oil to seal it in. A full CA finish done as above I think would be good - note the comment " shine that is IN the wood, not ON it"

Back in the '90s I used PhotoShop and really liked it. Since I'm now Linux user I've not learned enough about Gimp to actually make use of it. Looks like you've got the photo stuff down pat - good job

Here's a follow up on my post above on using CA glue in a finish. This is from Stacy's post on another forum. The best method of doing raw bog oak is a superglue finish. Bruce Bump developed one that has been the Gold Standard of superglue finishes. Get a bottle of thin CA. Get a bottle of...

Especially for a somewhat porous wood I'll use thin CA glue and wed sand with it to allow the sanding crud to fill the pores. After drying again sand CA to remove all except that inside the pores. The pores sorta become invisible. Then follow up with Tru-Oil or depending on wood, sand to 1200...

Welcome aboard - looking forward to seeing some of your new blades

Mike, those Darex sharpeners are amazing looking. Nice price, but bet they are more precise then the Drill Docs.

I like the Christmas tree!

I think that's a great way to introduce folks to knifemaking. I've invited several folks over, but only had 1 or 2 to actually make a knife. Like you most of my knives are given away to friends 'n family. I usually only sell 3 to 6 knives per year - just enough to sorta cover the cost of...

Opaul, your leather work is always outstanding - and you did it again. I can look and see what 'n how you did it, but my stuff just doesn't turn out as nice. I expect I need more practice? {g}

Seems like I read someplace a guy got $1/inch to sharpen. By the inch seems a fair way to do it - a 4" paring knife will take much less time than a 10" chef/fillet knife

Congrats on hear those "It's not cancer." magic words. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family Mike. AND to everybody else.

That walnut really looks good - hard to beat good looking Walnut Burl. On the Rosewood if you wetsand with CA glue with 400 grit the sanding sludge tends to fill the pores for a nice finish. Then sand with 400 grit to the bare wood removing all trace of CA glue except for the filled pores...