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10 to 15 minutes shouldn't be a problem as HT'ing issues are more a matter of temperature rather than time. Larrin recommends holding AEB-L for 15 minutes. 1975°F if using Dry Ice or LN. 1950°F if using -5°F freezer, 1925°F if using room temperature. Here's Dr Larrin's article for HT'ing...

Ooops, I've edited my post to say 4140 - a typo on my part

hand files? Are you talking for putting decorative file work on the blade? Or, for general filing? Yes, a pyrometer would be great for checking temps in the forge, but NOT the handheld IR type. They just don't work when the object starts glowing. You need a TC and digital meter for reading...

Just another time when reviving an old thread was a good thing.

It the OP is stilll around I'll bet he's happy you revived the old thread. Some forums don't like posting to old threads, but this group seems to have an acceptance. I personally feel sometimes a thread is worth reviving.

There are lots of makers on this site with good decent prices on the type of knife you describe. Look thru the "for sale" forum. https://knifedogs.com/forums/knives-for-sale-fixed-blades.111/

Moved from your old house to a new location? I'm sure you're happy with the move. Glad you've got the bug again, you've always shared so much good info with the rest of us mere mortals {g}

For sure I think all us "old" timers remember you and wondered where you went. Glad to see you posting again. I've seen your FB page, but don't spend much time on FB. Welcome back.

As Gene says, a good knifemaker can get by without a Hardness Tester, but they sure are nice. I've fully enjoyed the HR-150 Clone I have.

Both good points ya'll make, I surely had a "Ha-Ha" moment a while back. I got the idea of using masking tape to make strips of sandpaper for sanding knife handles - use them like a shoeshine cloth. That works good, but the masking tape does still break sometimes, especially when wet sanding...

Looks like you've got some good stuff there. Have you tested the rebound on the anvil yet?

I think I agree with you - depending on what a "parts kit" is it might all be there or not. The seller wouldn't know for sure since he purchased it that way.

You might join this forum https://lahobbyguy.com/bb/ and ask there. Those folks are more info lasers than most of us are. I use a 10 watt diode laser for engraving my finished blades. The mark is pretty good, and takes a bit of grinding to remove if I decide to change the mark, but it's...

Sorry it took so long for me to respond to welder I have, but it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP9CDVQ/ I think it was <$200 when I ordered it a few yrs ago. I didn't order thru Amazon, I found cheaper source back then, but now looking on ebay Amazon seems to be less expensive. I...

Rather than suggest a specific machine I'll make a couple of comments on how well they work. Here's a typical machine I saw reviewed favorably on youtube: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5YKGSPT/ $140 shipped. Not a bad price at all. I've got a similar MIG only machine that amazes me how...

Just remember to temper before using the carbide hammer, and lay the blade on some wood rather than direct on the steel anvil. I broke an AEB-L chef blade that way.

YES, the best supplier around - the own of this forum. https://usaknifemaker.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=kydex Good supply and good prices.... AND the best service around

Sounds like you're going to have a really good oven. I'm using two of the SYL-2362 model Auber PIDs, not the one you linked to. That looks like a really nice one. Good luck with your build and I think you'll be happy with it.

I can't see the model number, but I'd say at $500, it's well worth the money. Jump on it before you miss it. Without the model number I couldn't find a manual for that lathe. I did find a manual for the Jet BD-920N 9x20 lathe, but that one is a quick change gear box. Understanding the...

But does AEB-L as the OP mentioned actually have a "rough outer layer" that is hard to grind off?