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I sorta thought it was carved in handle, but wasn't sure. That looks like a museum piece to me :) Display for sure. OK, I just might use it for special occasions, but not just anybody allowed to use it :)

That's too pretty to actually use - make a display for that. Is the animal on the handle carved from the handle? OR, is it added to handle? Has an ivory look to it.

sawdust and epoxy perhaps. I don't know what wood glue would do, but epoxy should work fine.

I see LOTS of knife scales there. Good score. Sorry I can't answer any of your questions about the material.

Hang in there Doug - ya'll do great work

Just in case ya'll have not seen this video on Japanese sword making it's well worth watching

I thought that might be the case. Your first post did say "Kobuse 1070", but I didn't understand the Kobuse was a process. I did a search and found this link which gives good info: https://www.mandarinmansion.com/glossary/kobuse An interesting process to try sometime. Thank you for the thread.

I'd say both turned out MUCH better than just "ok". Try GREAT! Now, you said "1070 with mild steel cores". I "think" I know what that means, but to be sure would you explain please.

I had to come back today to comment on your machete - I like it. The length and curves just flow. How thick is the blade? Did you put any distal taper at all? Lack of a distal taper keeps weight up at the end for good chopping. Good job - makes me want to use that pattern to make a...

Since the OP is wanting to use a stacked leather handle a full tang of 1/2" is desired. Stick, mig or Tig welding with a steel bar would be my idea of a way to do it. Perhaps after welding, heat the tang to mild red and allow to cool slowly to relieve welding stress. Since there is only a...

Mike, Perhaps opaul was able to find your item, but I looked for the item you refer to but wasn't able to find it. An item number is usually a good bit longer than 4 digits. Something like this "403565583119" You can also post a link to the item on this site, by shortening the total link to...

Thanks for the link Chris - It led me to - amazing what those cartoon folks can do with video. It's all computer generated per the Spin-tires folks. I would expect a 1832°F Red Hot Copper Ball (RHCB) to cause more action when dropped into a cup of honey. I guess that's something I could try...

AGreed, a roller mill excites me more than a power hammer - those power hammer things are LOUD!! and BIG and HEAVY!!!

I'll bet it shows up and is a pretty good unit. Looks like it's coming DHL freight and will be here in a couple weeks or so. You'll get a tracking number so you can follow it. Be sure to keep us updated on how well it works. Do you know what dies come with it? Did you confirm HP/KW of the...

Paul, you're getting good with those slipjoints. Congrats on the build.

I've ordered $400 to $500 electronic equip in the past and it arrived just fine - shipped FedEx or DHL and fast shipping. But a power hammer? Now that's a big equip. Got a link to the Power hammer on those sites? Just did a search for "forging power hammer" and didn't turn up anything like...

Here's a link to that AEB-L paper Chris mentioned, LOTS of good info there. https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/03/04/all-about-aeb-l/ Chris, your experience with the graphite sprays are about the same as my experience. I still use the graphite spray for carbon steel, but for SS I normally use SS...

Steve, that is one impressive looking knife. With the attention to detail and finish it should command an impressive price. Congrats on work well done - true art.

Since around 45 to 50 Rc is considered good for a slipjoint backspring - or so I've been advised for several well know slipjoint makers. I'd expect about the same for a lockback spring - does that sound ok? For AEB-L or 14C28N I normally temper around 1100°F or so and don't bother with cyro...

I've been using the footswitch the last couple of days - WOW, that's what was needed. Now I consider the footswitch as part of the mister system.