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Is the action still due to backspring too strong? OR, perhaps pin peened too much? Agreed, liners look a tad on the thick side - what thickness are they? Still, all in all - good job

what thickness liners are you using? For slipjoints I tend to stay in the .050" range

"the thing would lock up solid, then after a few months, less and less. " You're talking about a slipjoint? OR a linerlock?

I like the design of your slipjoint. Keep updating this thread as you progress. With your skill level and attention to detail I don't think you'll have a problem. One of my early slipjoints I gave to my brother who carries it every day in his pocket, no pouch or anything, just loose in pocket...

Your brother is putting lots more water on the belt than I am. I set the mister to have a fine mist of water blowing directly on the blade edge - the belt gets wet, but not enough for water to be wiped off. This mist is really cold and does make a difference in overheating the edge while...

Here's a link to Amazon with lots of choices in the $1K range https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ortur+olm3+lu3-20a+laser+engraver&crid=10NMX7AAM96O0&sprefix=OLM3+laser%2Caps%2C147&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_10 This is the one I have, a 10 watt and in the thread I linked above you can see some of the...

Justin, are you saying your laser budget is $5K? If so, you've got LOTS of good choices, a 50 watt fiber for one. I've got a OLM3 which is a 10 watt diode and it does pretty good. Take a look thru this thread to get some good ideas. https://knifedogs.com/threads/the-laser-thread.53963/

Yes, that's a neat setup - I ordered the foot switch for my mister system. That should save on air, water, and make less water mess in my dust collection system. Dust Collection system isn't running when using mister, but it's still there.

Good job forging - Please do continue thread with final photos. I'd never heard of that style of knife so I've learned something. Looks much like the puukko. That bearing race (52100?) should be a very good steel.

You might mention what part of the world you're located in for these forsale items. Your profile is a good place to put your location.

That's what I was wondering, if it's the same material as the Scotchbrite belts

That is something that would be easy to 3D print, "IF" a person had the file. Having to draw the holder up in 3D CAD is another project. Maybe somebody has the files?

Plastigage is wonderful stuff

Now I understand, I was thinking you were planning to purge the whole oven. You're talking about filling the pouch with argon gas.

This is a very interesting thread - and I'll be following. Would it be possible to have bronze bearings made to replace the babbit bearings?

Pine is what I was thinking it looked like - heart pine is long lived! No bugs, no rot - almost forever.

Nice - any idea what wood those tobacco sticks are? Sorta looks like it's got a brownish stain from all the years of hanging tobacco leaves.

That is impressive!

Same here Paul, I use reverse a good bit of the time, especially for sharpening. If the tracking is really dialed in it should run ok in reverse. My grinder isn't perfect, the belt will move perhaps 1/4" when moving from forward to reverse.

What part did you order to make the KMG run in reverse? I guess you could do a twist on the belts to a figure 8 to make the grinder run in reverse but that sure seems like a lot of trouble. The normal way is to replace the 1 ph motor with a 3 ph using a VFD. This normally will require 220 vdc.