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I've got a bad habit of grabbing and feathering my lathe chuck to slow it down after turning the machine off. Now, normally I don't do this when the jaws extend past the outer periphery of the chuck, but like it I said: Bad habit. I'm not sure if my index and middle finger tips were as much...

Aikenn, Seems that you are resurrecting a lot of threads that are several years old. If you have a specific question (or questions), it may be better to start a new thread and ask them directly.

I've just put a ceiling mounted heater in my shop that keeps it at a minimum of 50F while I'm not in there, but I've been thinking about the need for something similar just to help keep my adhesives at a more consistent temp. My plan was to just use an old insulated cooler with a small...

It really depends on how you want to make your knives, and a lot will also depend on the quality of your CAD files as well as the vendor who's going to run them. The HAZ (heat affected zone) is something that can be worked around pretty easily if you use carbide tooling. With ANY of the three...

Change to 220, no question.

Maybe he had two pieces. One was 5160, and the other was 5160 too.... :D

They’ll get you in the ballpark, but they’re really no substitute for an actual tester. Mid 50s hrc on a production piece doesn’t surprise me.

Yeah, there shouldn’t be any noticeable play in the bearings themselves, or in the blocks once your shaft is installed into both. Does it change if you take your drive wheel off the shaft? The pulleys, shaft, and drive wheel should look almost like they’re not even moving when they’re up to speed.

The bearings are supposed to be able to pivot axially within the blocks for minor alignment. Once you add the second pillow block, it should eliminate the movement you're seeing.

Is the belt at the same tension for the 5" pulley as the 1-3/4"? Is there any lateral "slop" in the bearings on your motor or pillowblocks? Put a sharpie mark at 12 o'clock on your 5" pulley and your step pulley. Remove the v-belt and the grinding belt from the machine. Does either shaft turn...

I had a 2 day priority package sit in a Jersey distribution center for nearly 3 weeks before it arrived. My understanding is it’s a combination of short staff and high demand.

Oyster bucket?

Exhaust pipe?

Bacon in a cast iron skillet?

John pretty much covered it, but you basically use the corner of your platen to "carve" your plunge line out. It's one of those things that's probably makes more sense when you actually do it. They can be a little tricky to line up on both side, but done well, they look great. Here's a write up...

Looks good! Congrats on the "waffle".

Also check with any local machine and fab shops. A six pack or beer or a can of coffee might go a long way depending on the size of the shop and how busy they are.

Welcome back. Sorry for your loss.

I'm not sure about that emblem, but that looks exactly like a Buck Nighthawk tanto. Haven't seen one of those in years. It's amazing what you can remember when you obsessed over Smokey Mountain Knifeworks catalogs for hours on end, as a kid. Haha.

John pretty much has it covered. It's less about a specific angle, and more about getting things flat. For dovetails, it helps to start out with material that's already flat and relatively parallel. Grind your bolsters at a specific angle, then in order to match the lower piece, you just flip...