Search results

The bottom one is where I’m leaning. I think I want to shorten the ricasso a bit more.

Been working out a design for a commission piece. Customer asked for an “elven” blade (think Lord of the Rings). Going for an elongated Bowie/Persian thing. Also want to try some inlay on the handle. Any thoughts or critiques welcome. Hoping to finalize it this weekend. Blade steel will be 3/16”...

Great design. Picked out handle material yet?

That's beautiful. Very well balanced.

Here’s a kitchen set I just finished up. 15n20 steel and some nice curly Koa.

Does anyone worry about galvanic corrosion when choosing handle materials, or does the epoxy provide enough insulation to prevent it? Something I've wondered about when using dissimilar materials in handles. As an example, in aviation, you never use aluminum washers or fasteners with carbon...

Congratulations!

Got one with tap sizes too. Invaluable.

Welcome to KD from SE Pa!

Are these plungeless or blanks? I really like them.

I was researching those hammers today. Wondering how hard it would be to make one.

I think leaving it in the oven overnight is for the slow cool down.

Happy New Year!

Nice work and nice pictures too. Details on steel? As Opaul said, very clean.

No, I use welding clamps for that. I use these on my drill press, and to hold blanks when I’m hand sanding. I used them a lot more when I was doing sheet metal work.

These are my favorite clamps. Lockjaw. They’re self adjusting. You set the tension and they’ll hold whatever you squeeze them onto. Similar to vise grips but WAY easier to use.

What does this style specialize in? I've thought about picking some up. Guess you can never have too many clamps, right?

I've been doing some research on AEB-L recently because I want to start working with stainless steel this coming year. I came across a discussion of doing a stress relief cycle to reduce chances of warpage- basically soaking at 1200 F and letting cool overnight in the HT oven. My question is...

If you can only invest in one quench oil, use steels that it was designed for to get best results. As said above, Parks #50 for 10XX series, W1/W2 and 15n20. AAA for 80CrV2 and 52100. If you keep making knives, you'll eventually want both oils, and in a decent amount. I'm in the process of...

Latest model. Calling it the Wasp. Recurves are a pain to sharpen.