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Getting better at working with Kydex. These Ulticlips work really well. I highly recommend them.

Welcome to KD!

Thanks! I used the same technique that I've used to patina copper- sea salt and ammonia.

It’s been awhile, so I thought I’d post some of my latest work. This is the third Bowie build I’ve done. W-2 with bronze guard, bronze and steel spacers, and Koa handle.

I get the majority of mine from Instagram too. I'd add Flemingwoodsupply and Robswildwood. It is an addiction. My wife calls it "looking at wood porn".

Working on some wrapped handles.

You can etch with a 9v battery. I did that until I made an etcher using the plans on Chris Crawford's website. https://chriscrawfordknives.com/tutorials/written-tutorials/electro-etcher/page-1/ Not too difficult and not too expensive.

Really like the design of the first one.

Finished the Bowie and sheath. I had wanted to do a more contemporary looking one, using some shark I have for an inlay, but the customer wanted frontier style. It’s not as red as the photo makes it look. I can never seem to get a good pic of the hamon either.

The leather is a nice touch.

Welcome to KD!

Getting materials together and planning the sheath. Got some beaver tail I think will look interesting behind the handle. Also planning on using some copper strips.

I basically fumigate it in a plastic container with ammonia. The pieces are suspended above the ammonia (in this case on a small G10 platform). I spray them with a little ammonia and sprinkle sea salt over them. Then watch and wait. Rinse and wipe off excess when the finish is where I want it. I...

Worked on antiquing the fittings and guard. It took a nice patina. I’ll probably leave the steel spacer alone.

Thanks! It gave me some anxiety for a bit, but it’s sorted out now

Working on my 3rd hidden tang. Next step is to decide how to patina the bronze.

Didn’t know cedar could be stabilized. I like the look.

The CAD work to create the file was $30, one time, and the blanks were $10.30 each plus shipping. Price includes the 80crv2 steel too. Well worth it, especially with this model. Going to save me hours per blank in time.

Got some blanks cut by water jet from NJ Steel Baron. Very pleased. This is going to be a huge time saver on this model.

I'd also recommend neutralizing it when done. You can get Neutralizer and Electrolyte from USA Knifemaker. They're not expensive and last a very long time.