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Paul, you're getting good with those slipjoints. Congrats on the build.

I've ordered $400 to $500 electronic equip in the past and it arrived just fine - shipped FedEx or DHL and fast shipping. But a power hammer? Now that's a big equip. Got a link to the Power hammer on those sites? Just did a search for "forging power hammer" and didn't turn up anything like...

Here's a link to that AEB-L paper Chris mentioned, LOTS of good info there. https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/03/04/all-about-aeb-l/ Chris, your experience with the graphite sprays are about the same as my experience. I still use the graphite spray for carbon steel, but for SS I normally use SS...

Steve, that is one impressive looking knife. With the attention to detail and finish it should command an impressive price. Congrats on work well done - true art.

Since around 45 to 50 Rc is considered good for a slipjoint backspring - or so I've been advised for several well know slipjoint makers. I'd expect about the same for a lockback spring - does that sound ok? For AEB-L or 14C28N I normally temper around 1100°F or so and don't bother with cyro...

I've been using the footswitch the last couple of days - WOW, that's what was needed. Now I consider the footswitch as part of the mister system.

Is the action still due to backspring too strong? OR, perhaps pin peened too much? Agreed, liners look a tad on the thick side - what thickness are they? Still, all in all - good job

what thickness liners are you using? For slipjoints I tend to stay in the .050" range

"the thing would lock up solid, then after a few months, less and less. " You're talking about a slipjoint? OR a linerlock?

I like the design of your slipjoint. Keep updating this thread as you progress. With your skill level and attention to detail I don't think you'll have a problem. One of my early slipjoints I gave to my brother who carries it every day in his pocket, no pouch or anything, just loose in pocket...

Your brother is putting lots more water on the belt than I am. I set the mister to have a fine mist of water blowing directly on the blade edge - the belt gets wet, but not enough for water to be wiped off. This mist is really cold and does make a difference in overheating the edge while...

Here's a link to Amazon with lots of choices in the $1K range https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ortur+olm3+lu3-20a+laser+engraver&crid=10NMX7AAM96O0&sprefix=OLM3+laser%2Caps%2C147&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_10 This is the one I have, a 10 watt and in the thread I linked above you can see some of the...

Justin, are you saying your laser budget is $5K? If so, you've got LOTS of good choices, a 50 watt fiber for one. I've got a OLM3 which is a 10 watt diode and it does pretty good. Take a look thru this thread to get some good ideas. https://knifedogs.com/threads/the-laser-thread.53963/

Yes, that's a neat setup - I ordered the foot switch for my mister system. That should save on air, water, and make less water mess in my dust collection system. Dust Collection system isn't running when using mister, but it's still there.

Good job forging - Please do continue thread with final photos. I'd never heard of that style of knife so I've learned something. Looks much like the puukko. That bearing race (52100?) should be a very good steel.

You might mention what part of the world you're located in for these forsale items. Your profile is a good place to put your location.

That's what I was wondering, if it's the same material as the Scotchbrite belts

That is something that would be easy to 3D print, "IF" a person had the file. Having to draw the holder up in 3D CAD is another project. Maybe somebody has the files?

Plastigage is wonderful stuff

Now I understand, I was thinking you were planning to purge the whole oven. You're talking about filling the pouch with argon gas.