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I think it will. Usually people use what appears to be 12-16 ounce leather. The cool thing is, if you buff it with 0000 steel wool “around” the handle, it will preferentially eat away the flesh side of the leather. It should leave a fine “ribbed” texture if all goes according to plan

This stacked leather takedown handle has been kicking my butt lol. I used 2 ounce leather, and each layer had to be glued then tapered according to its place on the handle. Each layer was punched just a little undersized, then wet molded to the tang. I’ll have to count them some time, I lost...

I’ve never heard of 1095 Electrite. Is that different from regular 1095?

That’s more knives than I make in a year. Yeah, I’d say it’s not bad!

I start sanding at 80 grit. I use nothing up to 320. After 320, I’ll use Windex up to 1000. If I go beyond that, I use WD40. That’s to prevent spotting. On stainless I use Windex all the way. Seems to cut better than oil.

Does wiping it on your pants count?

That will work. That’s how they would reverse equipment running off line shafts back in the day. Might be able to wire your motor in reverse too.

I think I would have done domed pins, but seeing as how you’re past that point, masking tape works well as previously mentioned.

Rust bluing might be the ticket. It’s my favorite finish for carbon steel. You can do a lot of different things with it as far as surface effects, and it is very durable. Plus, if it ever rusts, you just hit it with some steel wool and it’s like it never happened

I haven’t done a direct comparison, but I’ve used that stuff on hardened and unhardened steel and never noticed a difference. I use it instead of layout dye sometimes when I want lines to stay for a long time. I don’t know how they “wear” over time.

That top one has sort of an upside down hamony thing going on. That’s pretty cool looking!

I bought some stainless flatware that had stickers on them that were impossible to remove, I tossed them in the HT oven at 900 to take the stickers off. Colored them purpleish. There’s still traces of purple on the forks, that have been used and ran through the dishwasher for about 10 years, so...

If you are doing it on a flat platen, try adding a strip of leather behind the belt on the platen. Having a soft backer seems to make things smoother. I still hand sand a LOT though.

I ran a nitrogen purge in my Paragon for a while. It’s nice on carbon blades because it leaves them clean. I don’t anymore, in the end it was kinda more hassle than it was worth.

I like Naniwa. I did have a 6k, I think it was a King, that had similar issues. Think I soaked it too long.

No it’s not lol. There are thousands of makers that can hand forge a blade and not have grinder marks!

There is two ways of looking at this from the buyers perspective: (1) you are using Kydex as part of your business. It’s simply a cost of doing business, change your markup and pass it on. (2) you are using Kydex as part of your hobby. Either get a new hobby, or accept that it will cost you...

I gotta mow the jungle in my backyard today, waiting for the grass to dry, I figured I’d shape the handle on this. The handle is 1/2” plywood, it will be replaced by stacked birch bark after I get the G10 shaped how I want it. I think the plywood actually looks kinda neat! The rest of it is...

I love Scagels knives, the sort of “organic” way they are shaped. I like where you’re going with this!

If I’m forging it I don’t bother. Stock removal, it does take the bark off and makes it a little easier. I forge most of my stuff, and rarely have it done. It’s only $6, if you want it, do it.