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The bearings I’m looking at are the ones in the two bolted pillow blocks here. The rear drive gear is resting on the small gear under it, rather than engaging it with a bit of clearance, so I think that bearing is definitely shot. The whole thing seems like it is shifted “rearward” to the left...

No I haven’t. I’ll ask the Google to find some of those for me. Thanks!

I have an old Flather lathe from I believe 1906. It’s a pretty good lathe, but the bearings are really bad. I’m guessing that they are babbit bearings. I haven’t ever done babbit bearing replacement before. Is it ok to start taking it apart, or is there stuff I should do before hand? Any good...

Yep, I’m from Minnesota! Makes sense now, thanks for clearing that up. That’s a pretty cool bit of history in that handle.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a “ tobacco stick”? Looks cool, nice EDC

Good to know!

I only did one knife with ram horn. Just worked it like wood basically.

Yeah I think that’s the route I’ll go. I think one of them will work better for what I’m doing.

Thanks for that info, Fitzo. I kind of suspected they were low torque/high RPMs. I think maybe a Foredom might be better. I’m grinding and carving bronze. The Dremel works, but I went through three of them last year.

I’m thinking about getting one of those pneumatic dental drills. Been looking, and there seems to be quite a bit of variety to them. Right now I have a Dremel with a flex shaft, but I would like higher RPMs, and just an overall upgrade. I do like the torque of the Dremel. Do the dental drills...

I haven’t done anything like that with the ones I heat treated. I put them in at 2050, 30 minutes, plate quenched, then 350x2. I didn’t see anything that said it needed anything more than that.

I have. It “worked”, but it wasn’t very clean, or fast. I had to leave it running for about ten minutes, and I think because of the time it took to etch, it left a sort of fuzzy outline.

I was just thinking along the same lines as Kentucky Fisherman. Use thin wall brass tubing, slide a slightly shorter piece of brass rod into that, then set a small pearl into the end. Since it’s a ball, you could gently roll the tubing over it a bit, like setting a stone, then sand the top...

Jeez. I’m only 44. You guys saying it gets WORSE?! lol

Somewhere I crossed the line from “party all night” to “go pee all night”. Getting old has its drawbacks, but far as I know, it’s better than the alternative. :) May we all keep gettin’ older.

I don’t see where it would be a problem. Look at the Swiss Army knives, and Leatherman…..they have screwdrivers on them, with a LOT weaker joint than a protrusion on a full tang. I would harden and temper the tang as well to make it stiffer. AEBL might be better than 1095 since it’s easier to...

I was just looking at my latest blade on a real final kinda bit of shaping, and there was something that looked “off” about it. I couldn’t measure anything tangible, but when I looked at it under bright light, it was kind of weird. I decided I would polish up my mirror super good and inspect it...

I don’t know this guy. His work appears to be well constructed, and while it’s not really my “style” I can appreciate what it took to arrive at the finished result. If he is able to command those prices, and get them, more power to him. Wish we could all do that. What makes a Van Gogh painting...

Another nice day so I figured I would get something done. Kiritsuke, 6.75”, W2. The piece of black palm will be the handle, with a copper bolster and domed copper pin.

60 grit, then hand sand. I use a fresh one for bevels, then retire them and use them for profiling. I toss them after a couple uses.