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Howdy, welcome aboard!

Here’s a pic of the stainless takedown nut. I like using Allen bolts because they are easy to tighten without worrying about scratching stuff. I intend for the end user to take these apart for cleaning and maintenance, so I like to have a user friendly way of disassembling it.

Finally finished this beast of a gyuto! W2, integral, with some quilted rainbow Siamese Rosewood from Greenberg Woods. I “s” ground this on my 36” platen, then used my 8” contact wheel on the lower part of the s, so there is a tighter radius along the edge. I really like the way it looks, but it...

I dunno, but I wondered the same thing. If I get a blasting cabinet, I was thinking of finding an old 1000 gallon propane tank and parking it outside my shop just to use it as a giant air tank so I could use a cheaper compressor. You might be able to do something like that

Oops. Didn’t see how old this is! Lol. Sorry

I don’t use jigs because I often do some weird elements in my bevel that really isn’t a practical application, but I don’t see how using one can make anyone’s work less desirable. Everyone has specialized stuff to make difficult processes easier. Power hammers, grinders, drill presses, and the...

Got a handle fit up on the integral today and finally finished the polish on the blade. Took four days to polish this blade, 2000 grit kasumi finish. I may etch it lightly with vinegar and polish it some more later, but I’m pretty happy with where it’s at

Thought I would try that today. The darn things don’t fit on my truck. Guess I’m gonna have to get bigger wheels. Traction on ice is going to be great though!

I seem to be unable to part with the things, so I hang onto them for quite some time. When they don’t work for grinding, I use them for cleaning up forgings and stuff like that. When I’m grinding blades, I usually switch them pretty often, so they aren’t really “worn out”. A new 36 gets used for...

Only thing I can really recommend to bring is maybe a pair of safety glasses. If you want to watch closely what someone is working on sometimes it puts you close to flying stuff you don’t want in your eyes.

I’m doing some rust blued fittings right now. My first time trying it, but so far I have found that a really smooth surface doesn’t work very well. The solution I was wetting it with beads up if it’s really smooth. I’m going to stick with 400. I know a guy that was sandblasting stainless and he...

Getting my integral polished. I’m at 1000, the hamon is starting to pop out. Not only is this my first integral, it’s also my first intentional hamon. I’ve had them form spontaneously in the past, but this one I heat treated it specifically for the effect

Oh, yep! That would have been an excellent use for that stuff.

Drilling that had to have been nerve wracking!

It’s so much better than trying to use shims and wedges, or clamping stuff in a vise and praying you don’t crack it!

What did you end up doing?

This stuff right here. “Amazing Mold Putty” by Alumalite. It’s a Play-Doh like silicone putty. You mix it in equal parts in your hands and it sets up into a hard kinda rubbery solid. I use this stuff all the time. I put the picture of the stag crown to kind of show one of the uses. Say you are...

That’s too purdy to have pins that don’t work….you could try drilling them out. I’ve never had any luck doing that, but maybe you will.

Working on my very first integral! I want the bolster to look like a forged iron fitting, so it is “kinda” textured, I’ve got a bunch more I have to do to it but it’s kind of getting close. It’s a 10” blade, W2 from Aldo, with a pretty cool hamon. It shows up in the right light, with more polish...

You know, I was thinking….if it doesn’t need to be hard, like knife hard, and springy/tough is kinda what you are going for, would a different metal entirely serve your purpose? Titanium might work fairly well, it’s pretty springy. No heat treat needed, it’s got corrosion resistance too. Just...