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You need silver brazing rod for the but cap/threaded rod to be strong enough. If you are good at brazing you can you use it on the nickle silver but it is not that easy and the colors don't match well.

I too would leave it as it is. I have one that I have owned seince 1974 and it was old when I got it. that said, to flatten a worn stone you need to get a second stone or you can get a stone dresser(a second stone with grooves cut in it) I would use a crystalon stone, just rub the two faces...

there are cheaper ways to go but you aren't going to bet anything close to the smoothness of this grinder without spending at least this much.

I like lamp oil or kerosene. they are enough to float the metal away from the stone but don't plug the stone.

IG since it is stamped 144 and weighs 144 pound then it is most definately an american made anvil. the shape looks like A Hay budden to me and also in the first picture there appears to be a circular deppression near the bottom. Hay buddens where almost always marked with a curcular stamp saying...

Here you go.

One ounce of half hard fine silver wire is only going to cost about 22.00 dollars and is going to give about 25 feet of wire of a suitable size for inlay. Bill Moran got his wire from here http://www.hagstoz.com. they are very easy to work with and don't mind dealing in small quantities.

go to you county electrical inspector and ask him. He should have all the charts and info on what size wire you should run.

I for one thank you.

there is also Matt and Michell Whitmus in Ephrata Washington. they make very nice bold patterned Damascus and it i very reasonably priced. this one from Matt: This one from Michell:

Erin you are wright in your translation. The word below england is solid and the one below that is wrought these two form a circle around the middle 1 of the 1 1 23. I saw that on cl you are lucky I am in Idaho so no way that I could beat you to it.

Thanks scalphunter but I thinck chuck is the big dog so far.

this is the only one that I have a picture of. Oh and this one. [/IMG] [/IMG]

what is the "H" size of the tap? if it is an H3 or 4 you may have to drill the hole a little larger. also I think that a 10 size tap is too small for the size of steel that you are using.

Keith, If and when you find out maybee you can let me know. I have it happen occasionally and have no clue why. I can pretty much gaurantee that They hat not been over heated but WTH anything is possible.

Keith it could be that there are bubbles forming along the boundries during the etch.

Another thing that works but it is not free is to watch enco for a free shipping code then order one of their 25 or 30 dollar surface plates. usually two plus inches thick and flat too .0002

Drill bits tend to make three sided holes and reamers four or six. the courners may be so slight that the hole apears round though. I think that the only two possibilities to get a round hole are to bore or lap as stated above. But I reserve the right to change my opinion subject to imperical...

Are you trying to rockwell a blade on the bevels? most of the makers I know do their rc test on the ricasso area. It is my understanding that to getaccurate reading you need nearly paralell sides but I not know that for sure. Maybee you could try hardening just a small rectangular coupon of you...

bulged ends are perfectly normal. I and most of the guys I know, weld a star pattern of beads accross the ends. this helps the can to bulge in a controlled manner.