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Others more experienced than I may give better advice, but here's my 2 cents: Trick I learned from Wayne Goddard to get an even bluing (not blotchy) - mix a 3 oz bottle of something like Birchwood/Casey Super Blue in a gallon or two of water and dunk your blade in that for awhile rather than...

I'm just a hobbyist - but I sure like Wayne Coe's note on striking at red heat. Wayne Goddard always advises against using stamps - says it causes stress risers. I'd never seen confirmation of that until a post today or yesterday on the Fogg forum where Doug Lester (no newb) noted that he...

... and *I'm* hardly a moderator either - but I have purchased Ed's videos and watched (what may have been another 52100 blade) go through 180 degree flexes and crack on the 15th flex (by my count) - that was after this blade cut the hemp rope around 150 times. I don't think he's blowing smoke...

Eric Ochs had a folder with a spruce cone in translucent green resin from Ankrom at last month's 5160 Club meeting. Based on what I held in my hand, I bet these photos - awesome as they are - don't catch the real depth of that handle. And what a beautifully flowing knife! ~ Michael

I mentioned this at last night's 5160 Club meeting and the most useful response I got was: "Your best protection is a wooden sheath lining" ... that said - the sheath geometry should match the blade geometry, you should put the blade in with the blade's spine contacting the back of the sheath as...

At our last 5160 Club meeting Eric Ochs passed around a bunch of his folders... one of which had a stunning set of spruce cone scales: http://www.elementalforge.com/5160Club/201211Newsletter.pdf Eric said he gets this sort of thing from Ankrom Exotics: http://www.ankromexotics.com/ and it looks...

Laurence - you might be interested in a test Eric Ochs did a few years back, subjecting a number of samples of handle wood to the elements and seeing how they fared: http://www.ochssherworx.com/index_files/Page513.htm

Ed Fowler has worked extensively with 52100 and talks about its grain.

Sorry to hear that. A number of folks from our neck of the woods went last year and had a great show.

An alternative I've used requires that you are comfortable with computers, have an old style laser printer (an inkjet will not work), and are willing to create your stencil design in a computer drawing program. I've found that a "vector" based drawing program give me more control and infinite...

Here's a note from Ben Tendick over on Bladeforums on how he set his up: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/977970-3-grinders-1-VFD!!

Somebody else mentioned using a pan filled with dry sand to put your blade(s) into if you think your oven spikes the temp. From Ed Caffrey's comments it sounds like "not-to-worry" - but the idea of using sand as a heat buffer seems like a good one to me. You'd want to pre-heat the sand before...

I love these!

Can you make a knife that thick at the spine that won't wedge when you julienne a potato?

+1 on Kevin Cashen - scroll to the bottom of this page: http://www.cashenblades.com/heattreatment.html Kevin has in-depth heat treating knowledge in and out of knifemaking. Thanks, Kevin, for sharing!!!

After watching the above video a couple of years ago, I decided that I needed a wood splitter anyway - so I bought a 20 ton splitter and made up dies from RR track that can be put on or removed in minutes. Works for hobby level knife making. And splits wood for the wood stove. Don't know how...

Kevin - once again - thanks!!!

I love the lines - make me /really/ want to pick it up and see how it fits in my grip.

Awesome! After I help my cousin get his table set up I'll try to find your table and get a good look at it before someone takes it away!!

Thanks for the update - there's some conjecture about how the bearings will hold up over time - so if you think of it - give us another update in 6 months or a year... it's great to have another grinder under $1k on the market!