Search results

After a year recovering from a foot injury it has been slow getting back into the forge/studio. Planning to purchase a new HT oven and mill. I still need to complete moving everything around to work sitting as the Doctor suggested. In as far as making I need to make a new performance test knife...

Greg at Phoenix Abrasives has a very good selection too.

I use GFLEX regularly to glue G10 liners. The key is the preparation and that that I place a weight on top of the pieces while drying. I use 6x6x.75" pieces of steel as weights. I glue my liners on before profiling the handle shapes.

Get this book: Or this DVD set: Both are great and covers how to do it if you are hand stitching. A food bag vacuum system would be of help in forming your sheaths. The inexpensive $20 ones work great.

Very good looking overall. Clean lines and great attention to details.

Nice little one...

Very well crafted!

I'm following this one too. I'm ready to get both of these and have room for one now and will have room for the other in March. I was thinking about Travis' attachment but really felt it would limit me on bigger projects. For a mill I have space for a BF20 size unit and I'm seriously...

Very nice!

I'll add that a medium and fine surface conditioning belt, plus a plain cork belt are nice to have also. They help reduce some of the hand sanding in my case.

The feeling of improving your work area is nearly as good as making a knife. Finished my new work area back in September of 2014 got injured and didn't get to use it till October 2015. Nicely finished for weather control and good lighting is what I enjoy about it the most. In South Florida...

Congratulations! Jose is a really nice person. I got an original Phere from him 3 years ago, it's still working hard!

Look at some of the Sugar Creek Forge YouTube video s. Then decide for yourself. The 2012 build along ones will be useful to you. Welcome to the journey!

I had worked leather for years off/on. Next I put handles on blanks. For about 8-10 years I was basically a cutler (handle maker.) Then the bug bit me. I took an American Bladesmith's Society class and started working outdoors on my back porch. Within 6 months this was the place I worked in...

I get to the thickness of a nickel before Heat Treat and down to a dime before sharpening. I use a Moran edge and most of my blades are 5 to 6" long. Knives OAL around 11".

Very nicely crafted with great attention to details!!!

Looking good Fred. Can't wait to see your next group of photos...

While not as powerful, I recommend a Craftsman 2x42" sander to those looking for an alternative to the 1x30" sander most beginners buy. They can be found use for a very reasonable price. With less than $10 in YouTube modifications you have a very usable tool for basic knife making.

I also use Mobil One 5W40 as a lube while sanding. It floats the grindings off and helps too!

I would trim it to fit a vacuum jar on my system and Stabilize it with Cactus Juice. I really like the look of it too! I would call it a Mississippi River Driftwood and do a theme based on either fishing or steamboats.