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I'm with Ed on this one. I would change my design concept to use the most of the metal as possible. Then make the one you want. Heck, put it in your I'll do it later bucket and start the one you want again. I've got a few put away like that which when I got back to them made very nice knives.

This was my wife's idea of an add on for the shop.

Sitting in the shop hand rubbing BLO into a Black Palm handle, while listening to country music. Great way to exercise your fingers and drink some fresh lemonaid. Cheers!

I use a 2:1 mix raw linseed oil to Tru-Oil on most of my domestic woods. I also use raw tung oil mixed 1:1 with BLO plus a tablespoon or turpentine. All hand rubbed with my fingers till dry. Several coats till I get the finish I want for that knife.

Buy it for your first project. It will cost you less. I made my first set at a all in cost of $65. I had enough resin to make five 6x11" pieces but, it was a mess to do. Also time intensive. I only make it for special projects these days. One out of fifty micarta handles. I really like the G10...

Definitely different! Has possibilities. It's always good to think outside the box.

I've made round knives out of O1 quenched in canola oil. The only difference in my procedure is I have a method of measuring and controlling my temperature. I used a 6 minute hold time on them. I use 15N20 for my latest ones. Strap cutters are on the bench being finished now out of 15N20.

Looks good for general forging. I might give it a bit more air. I like more of a jet sound in my environment. Mine gets bright red in about 4 minutes. Ready to forge, I built that forge out of an empty freon tank. When using my little forge to heat my blade for quenching I like to reduce my...

I use a forced patina to prep my steel which I follow with a hand polish removing all the oxide to then rust blue my blade. Gives it protection and a very nice dark blue almost black finish. It will rust but takes a lot longer to do so.

If what you are calling the bolster area is the same thickness top to bottom and not beveled I would leave it alone. To keep your handle simple treat the area in front of it as a sharpening notch. The extension as part of the ricaso. Make your handle scales out of G10 or micarta. That stuff is...

Outstanding craftsman!

Word of advice, start your bookkeeping and accounting from day one. Do monthly statements. Be sure to file everything on time. Make it a habit and routine. A lot of folks let that business part of business get away from them. It is very important to track all cost and determine true profit...

Back when I started the whole shop was under the back porch. Last year I setup a new shop in a 10x20' shed. The difference is like night and day. No weather constraints, better lighting control. No worries about stuff rusting like before. Easier to keep everything clean, plus now all my stuff is...

Just found a photo that includes my pony and a palm for each hand on my leather bench. I've developed a technic where I sew with both ands as I saddle stitch.

I also use large harness needles for most of my hand sewing. Waxed linen thread in both 5 and 3 strands works very well. I would suggest a stitching pony and a sewing palm. You can build your pony quite simply.

Welcome to the pack! Hope you enjoy the journey.

Very nice!

A hamon is a form of differentially hardening a blade. The edge is harder and the spine softer. Resulting in a tougher blade. A fully hardened blade will result in a harder blade but, not necessarily a better blade. Heat treating should be based on the function of the tool. And Yes, hamons...

You only need a 4" hole at most. Keeping it smaller will help with getting the right temperature and not wasting fuel. I have built forges out of empty freon tanks use 2" 8# kaowool. You definitely need to coat it. The fibers will cause you issues down the road with your lungs. I make large...

Boss Dog has forge making supplies on his USAKnifemaker.com site plus a lot of other knife making supplies.